
This tragic event would eventually be known as the Great Fire of 1901, the third largest urban fire in American history behind the 1906 San Francisco Earthquake and Chicago Fire of 1871.
Origin
Around noon on Friday, May 3, 1901 a spark from a kitchen fire during the lunch hour at a mattress factory set mattresses filled with Spanish moss on fire at the factory located in an area now known as LaVilla. The fire was soon discovered and it was thought they could put it out with only a few buckets of water. Consequently an alarm was not turned on until it had gone beyond their control.

Bay Street during the 1870s.

The fire would start in LaVilla on the corner of Davis and Ashley Streets and eventually burn everything in it's path between that point and the St. Johns River. The only thing that stood in its path and the rest of Jacksonville was Hogan's Creek and the St. Johns River.
Fire gets out of control
When the fire department arrived, the fire had spread from the outside platform upon which it started, to the pine buildings, which rapidly became a seething mass. Then the breeze sprang up, and the resinous brands and millions of sparks were dropped on the roofs of nearby homes, every few minutes starting a new distributing center and rapidly creating a chaos of fire and smoke. Rapidly it made its way eastward, devouring everything combustible in its path.



Aftermath
The fire swept through 146 city blocks, destroyed over 2,000 buildings and left almost 10,000 people homeless all in the course of eight hours. It is said the glow from the flames could be seen in Savannah, Georgia; smoke plumes in Raleigh, North Carolina.
Florida Governor William S. Jennings declared a state of martial law in Jacksonville and dispatched several state militia units to help. Reconstruction started immediately, and the city was returned to civil authority on May 17. Despite the widespread damage, only seven deaths were reported.
By the late 1800's, Bay Street was a bustling corridor of commerce before Jacksonville was burnt to a crisp.

After the fire, Bay Street was a shell of it's former self.
Did racism allow the fire to grow?
James Weldon Johnson, one of Jacksonville's most famous residents, thought the Great Fire of 1901 might not have caused such destruction if it weren't for the authorities' racism. Johnson, who later became famous as a writer, diplomat and civil rights leader, was the principal of the original Stanton School in Jacksonville at the time of the fire. In his autobiography Along This Way, he recalled that he and his brother Rosamond were riding their bicycles to their parents' home when they saw smoke not far from their house.
Johnson wrote:
We met many people fleeing. From them we gathered excitedly related snatches: the fiber factory catches afire - the fire department comes - fanned by a light breeze, the fire is traveling directly east and spreading out to the north, over the district where the bulk of Negroes in the western end of the city live - the firemen spend all their efforts saving a low row of frame houses just across the street on the south side of the factory, belonging to a white man named Steve Melton.
Johnson also alleged that when people complained to the fire chief, he used a racial slur and said it would be a good thing for blacks' homes to burn. Soon it was too late to change plans.

Jacksonville residents tour their city of ruins, shortly after the flames finally went out.





Hemming Park after the fire. The Confederate monument in Hemming Park was one of the few structures to survive. Many witnesses claim that the base had a red glow during the fire.
Reconstruction

Famed New York architect Henry John Klutho helped rebuild the city. Klutho and other architects, enamored by the "Prairie Style" of architecture then being popularized by architect Frank Lloyd Wright in Chicago and other Midwestern cities, designed exuberant local buildings with a Florida flair. While many of Klutho's buildings were demolished by the 1980s, a number of his creations remain, including the St. James Building from 1911 (a former department store that is now Jacksonville's City Hall) and the Morocco Temple from 1910. The Klutho Apartments, in Springfield, were recently restored and converted into office space by local charity Fresh Ministries. Despite the losses of the last several decades, Jacksonville still has one of the largest collections of Prairie Style buildings (particularly residences) outside the Midwest.
Remembering the Fire today

The Catherine Street Fire Station (No. 3) opened 10 months after the Great Fire destroyed the original 1886 structure. Bricks salvaged from buildings destroyed during the fire were used to construct the north, south and west walls of the firehouse. Today, the station has been restored and lives on as the Jacksonville Fire Museum. Here, visitors can learn more about the Great Fire of 1901, as well as other local fire-related historic events, such as the 1963 Roosevelt Hotel Fire that ended up taking 22 lives during Gator Bowl weekend. Located in Kids Kampus at Metropolitan Park, the Jacksonville Fire Museum is open Monday through Friday, from 9am to 4pm.
Jacksonville Fire Museum: www.jacksonvillefiremuseum.com
The Jacksonville Fire Memorial was erected to remind our community of the disaster our city faced and survived. The memorial was dedicated in 2003 to mark the 100th anniversary of what many have called the most destructive burning of a southern city in history.
Hogans Creek saved Springfield from being destroyed by the fire.
The Confederate monument in the center of Hemming Plaza was one of the few things to survive the Great Fire of 1901.
To learn more about the Great Fire:
The Great Fire of Jacksonville: An Artistic Description of a Gloomy Affair
http://web.uflib.ufl.edu/spec/pkyonge/jacksonville/fire.html
Acres of Ashes
http://fulltext10.fcla.edu/DLData/NF/NF00000008/file5.pdf
Article by Ennis Davis


fsu813
October 20, 2009, 08:14:52 AMvery good over view of the course, before & after, etc of the fire. The picture of the Klutho building presentation & the map of the burning are very interesting as well.
JeffreyS
October 20, 2009, 08:42:57 AMSomething every local resident should know. Good job.
Wacca Pilatka
October 20, 2009, 08:46:04 AMWhere is that historical marker located?
Ernest Street
October 20, 2009, 10:09:53 AMLocal legend tells about some residents with Dynamite going around "Putting out the fires" But they were a little too enthusiastic...
fsu813
October 20, 2009, 12:27:32 PMI'm pretty sure there is a historicl marker at the Landing, though the opne pcitured didn't seem to be it.
The sculpture is outside the Hyatt, i think.
thelakelander
October 20, 2009, 12:33:28 PMThe marker is in Hemming Plaza.
Wacca Pilatka
October 20, 2009, 12:50:01 PMThanks Lake. I don't know how I've missed it repeatedly but I'll look for it next time I'm in town. For some reason I had it in mind that it was near the monument by the Hyatt.
Cliffs_Daughter
October 20, 2009, 02:16:47 PMIn the legend of the Fire Area map, there's something called "Market Street Horror"
Anybody know what that was about?
stephendare
October 20, 2009, 02:21:12 PMIts where the fire trapped a huge group of people on all sides and drove them to the river.
That location is presently marked by the monument to the fire. People were driven into the river.
fsujax
October 20, 2009, 02:55:43 PMI have the book on my coffee table and actaully attended the dedication ceremony in Hemming Plaza on that hot May day in 2001 for the 100th anniversary of the fire. I love reading the about the Great Fire.
Raysfan16
October 20, 2009, 02:57:27 PMWow, nice article. I wonder what the ratio is of buildings destroyed in the Great Fire to buildings destroyed by 'urban renewal'.
Lunican
October 20, 2009, 03:16:53 PMI think a lot of people assume that areas like Brooklyn and LaVilla are non existent today as a result of the fire, which is not true.
blanchard
October 20, 2009, 04:13:05 PMMarket St horror is described in detail in 'Acres of Ashes' which is availible at the library, as well as online. In fact, I believe that map is from that book.
Anyway, it is indeed where the fire cornered dozens of people. If my memory serves me correctly, they all boarded a sailing vessel that was tied to the Pier, and tried to depart. Because of the fire, there was an incredible amount of wind being sucked into the fire, actually causing the boat to be sucked back into its berth. There was also reports of a water spout being caused. I believe the boat was then hooked up to a steam powered Yacht that tried fruitlessly to pull it out of the birth, before the vessel capsized.
This is all off the top of my head, so i may be off on some points.
Cliffs_Daughter
October 20, 2009, 04:44:33 PMWow. That just puts more of an emotional element to it. Truly horrible.
Charles Hunter
October 20, 2009, 04:48:34 PMI have heard that commercial fishermen, from downriver, came in their fishing boats to ferry people away from the fire. I would guess their smaller boats wouldn't be as effected by the "fire storm" winds as a sailing vessel.
Dan B
October 20, 2009, 04:54:16 PMhttp://www.uflib.ufl.edu/ufdc/?m=hd1J&i=180267
stjr
October 20, 2009, 09:11:58 PMGreat article and excerpt on the Market Street Horror. The pix remind me a bit of those of Dresden, Germany, after it was bombed in WWII. Someone should make a movie and/or documentary on this momentous event. I can't imagine that every city in America didn't take note of this tragedy and revise their fire and building codes.
I also can't help but wonder how this fire changed the "personality" and "future" of Jax, for better or worse. Did the fabric of our economy change? Did our politics change? Did the demographic makeup of the city change? How traumatized were the locals and did that change their attitudes toward decision making? Did "class" and/or racial relations change? What effect did it have on the transportation of the city and the growth beyond Downtown? Did the fire create more opportunities than it destroyed? Did the destruction create our lack of appreciation and appetite for disposable structures for the next 100 years of our long history by focusing the populace on starting anew and destroying much of its past including records? Did it focus the City on short term results over long term ones in our haste to rebuild, a momentum that may still exist today? Would make a great thesis for a post-graduate history major!
Interestingly, despite the horror described in the "Acres of Ashes" book, "only" 7 perished in the entire fire per the historic marker. I wonder if they ever fully accounted for everyone and whether blacks were accounted for separately from whites in those days.
FYI, a related MJ thread with more info and a link to the Jacksonville Fire Museum can be found at:
Historic Fire Department Pix at Jacksonvillefiremuseum.com
http://www.metrojacksonville.com/forum/index.php/topic,5676.0.html
stephendare
October 20, 2009, 09:21:43 PMThe fabric of the City changed remarkably, Stjr.
On this I can speak elaborately, as I have been studying and reading all of the available literature from the times immediately surrounding the great fire.
The first palpable effect that it had was an incredibly liberating effect on the politics and outlook of the city.
People were so concentrated on the dynamics of the community and how a city works that they were able to take bold chances that they might not have otherwise taken.
In fact the city after the Fire became famous and proud of its Progressive Politics, and even the Chamber of Commerce at the time bragged about the Progressive politics of the metropolis as a major selling point of the city.
It was widely considered a liberal city, if you can believe that, and this is reflected in the skyscrapers and prairie influenced architecture of the time. Henry Klutho brought that design ethos with him and it was adopted so widely that we have one of the largest inventories of legitimately Prairie architecture in the world outside of Chicago.
Equally liberal were the racial politics of the city, the revisionist, klan friendly history of Jacksonville nothwithstanding. At the time of the Great Fire, most of the police force were black and there were elected black officials serving public office.
In fact, Confederate Park was renamed confederate Park partially because of the percieved liberalism of the postmaster after whose family donation it was named: Peter Dignan.
And Jacksonville was scandalized by the ugly racial hatred and separatism that the rest of Florida was rife with.
When the catholic sisterhood in st augustine was excoriated for teaching negro children by the rest of the state, Jacksonville was disgusted so strongly by it that it was noted in statewide journals as being out of step with the state.
It didnt last long, naturally. Once the Boom began, the end of Progressive Politics began and the era of TR gave way to racial exclusionism and segregation.
When Napoleon Bonaparte Broward ran for mayor of Jacksonville, he began getting rid of the black law enforcement replacing them with white men, which made him into a viable statewide politician. I don't think he really cared about race one way or another, but he was passionate about political advancement.
The Fire brought out the best in our city, and they created the city that blossomed into the golden age of prosperity and municipal greatness.
iloveionia
October 20, 2009, 10:04:41 PMEnnis,
I really like the caption under the Hogan's Creek photo. I'd say 100 years is a long enough to "make good." It saved us, now it is time for US to save it. I see potential as many do.
I am sorry many of Klutho's building were razed in the 80s. Shame on Jacksonville. I am glad however about Fresh Ministries building restoration on Main, and I just love the Klutho house on West 9th just off Main and the duplex adjacent (needs love) that were part of the movie studios.
Nicole
Ocklawaha
October 21, 2009, 10:25:21 AMI fail to see this as a unique disaster, in fact standing some of those photos next to the same scene's today reveals that we swept up the ashes, but downtown looks about the same today as Post 1901 Jacksonville.
OCKLAWAHA
stjr
October 21, 2009, 11:13:28 AMOck, well said. The wrecking ball has destroyed more of our history at this point than the great fire. There are immeasurably more 2,000+ year old structures remaining today from the ancient Mayans, Incas, China, Greece, Rome, and the Middle East than from Jacksonville's short history. In a few years, our past may be nothing more than a memory of the old geezers frequenting MJ!
Wacca Pilatka
October 21, 2009, 12:07:42 PMWacca Pilatka
October 21, 2009, 12:10:07 PMStephen, do you have a recommendation for where I could read more about this? I am always looking for good Jax history book recommendations. I haven't read "Jacksonville After The Fire" by Jim Crooks; is this covered in there? About all I know about Broward is the little bit of material on him in the Ft. George Island section of Architectural Heritage.
Wacca Pilatka
October 21, 2009, 12:16:16 PMThere's also a great story of how the proprietor of the Title & Trust Co. of Florida (I think I have that company name right; its office is on Forsyth across from the Florida Theatre, on the same side of the street), who held copies of most of the property records in Duval County, was able to carry his records to the river in advance of the approaching fire, commandeer a small boat, and carry them across the river to safety. Because the courthouse burned, his resources were the primary source of establishing title to property afterward.
Dan B
October 21, 2009, 12:35:25 PMI dont believe Broward was ever the Mayor. JET Bowden was mayor around the time of the fire. Broward was the Sheriff of Duval before the Spanish American War, but lost office in the mid 1890s.
He was later appointed to the statehouse for one term, before eventually deciding to run for Governor.
Here is a list of preconsolidation Mayors for Jax.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_mayors_of_Jacksonville,_Florida
stjr
October 21, 2009, 12:54:51 PMDan, thanks for posting. This list is interesting. The City of Jax should include this on the City's official web site.
In fact, the COJ web site should have an archival tab on their home page that provides a great overview of the City's history, historical accounts, images, maps, facts and figures, and info on all the officials who have served it, elected or appointed. Also, links to neighborhood, State, and other historical societies, library and museum collections, historic info on the web (such as Wikipedia, Metro Jax, etc.), and historic books and documents available for further research.
Adam Hollingsworth, are you reading this? I am sure the Jax historical society and others would be happy to volunteer in the effort.
Maybe this would further historic preservation in Jax as well. Every City Council member and City official should have to read the section before implementing or voting on policies affecting preservation of our history.
stephendare
October 21, 2009, 05:53:48 PMBroward was Mayor of LaVilla, actually, which was a large chunk of downtown Jacksonville.
stephendare
October 21, 2009, 06:04:59 PMStjr. Here is a great kind of impression of the political environment in and around the time:
I was looking up references to the Dignans after whom the park system was originally named and I came across this highly interesting doctoral thesis describing the immediate background of the change from "Dignan" Park to "Confederate" Park.
Apparently there was a fresh wave of domestic terror with the Catholics.
Not terror BY the Catholics mind you, but OF them.
After nuns in St Augustine were proven to be deliberately teaching Negroes at the school in 1911, a firestorm of demands for security and stronger laws was pretty much unleashed.
The Governor an anti Catholic crusader was running against Nathan P. Bryan for Senator. Bryan had appointed an incredibly respected member of the Dignan Family as Postmaster General of Jacksonville and came under heavy criticism for potentially dealing with the terrorists as a result.
The controversy lasted until 1916 and the new elections.
Anyways, this is a fascinating look into the politics and motivations of the times:
(this part of the story picks up about page 164)
stephendare
October 21, 2009, 06:05:08 PMrjp2008
October 23, 2009, 03:07:49 PMThe fire this, the fire that...everything with the fire....
At some point, Jax has to stop dwelling on it so much. Leave it in history, where it belongs. Move on. To it's credit, the city has. But sadly, it seems like it's still clung to as "we should've been this kind of city but the fire ripped us off" Yes, it was terrible. It's a growing city now, has some direction, I just think the fire needs to be left in the past where it belongs. Move the city forward.
JeffreyS
October 23, 2009, 03:17:52 PMI don't find many people who even know much about it much less dwell on it.
Dan B
November 03, 2009, 08:59:09 AMThe fact is, the Fire pushed Jacksonville to become a modern city. Prior to the fire, it was predominantly wooden structures, and many of the streets were still unpaved.
Honestly, in a sort of back handed way, the fire may have been the best thing to ever happen to Jax!
ac
November 03, 2009, 09:06:12 AM^
I'd agree, if we hadn't systematically destroyed many of the buildings that cropped up in the wake of the fire only to leave empty lots.
We've set ourselves back in the intervening century.
billy
November 03, 2009, 09:18:33 AMDidn't Klutho come here because of the fire?
Dan B
November 03, 2009, 09:22:16 AMYup.
thelakelander
November 03, 2009, 09:22:59 AMYes. Most of Jax's well known architects from that era came because of the fire. I agree with Dan B. Although it was disaster, the fire was one of the better things to happen to Jacksonville. The city that came out of its ashes was something that was and still is unique to the Southeastern US.
stjr
November 03, 2009, 10:14:50 AMLake, maybe another "fire" would move us into the next century? Since we are tearing down all our historic buildings anyway, we won't be sacrificing much.
Ocklawaha
November 03, 2009, 10:16:42 AMInteresting side note from an Unreconstructed Seccish Confederate... I think we've had enough fires.
During the War of Yankee Aggression, Jacksonville was invaded by the Union Fleet and Army in 1862, and thereafter three more times. The first invasion wasn't complete until an incredible fire fight between Confederate Battery's on St. Johns Bluff and the Fort at Yellow Bluff (National Park Site today). The Yankees over ran both sites, and built a signal tower at Yellow Bluff and Hemming Plaza. The City was burned to the ground by wild troops from NEW YORK, who started their fires in the churches. When they left town, the people tried to rebuild only to be burned out again, each invasion heavy with NEW YORK soldiers, in fact we were burned out three times. The Confederate Line finally pulled back to about 15 miles of earthworks west of town (also a park today).
We were then hit by the Great Charleston Earthquake of 1886, and a national depression in the 1890's. Finally on a roll, the City was booming by 1901, ironically with a huge influx of former (mostly) New York Soldiers, who loved the area so much they came back and invested. When the Great Fire Hit, perhaps the first and greatest aid we got was from the CITY OF NEW YORK. They donated nearly a million dollars, and a great deal of love for Jacksonville. History is stranger then fiction.
OCKLAWAHA
DEO VINDICE Y'ALL!
stjr
November 03, 2009, 10:34:15 AMA million dollars in 1901? Wow. Did we do anything to honor their generosity? A monument, historic marker, thank you note? Anything? Maybe we should have made NYC our first "sister city". Think of all the spin off benefits that would have given us as their "little sister". Winter home for all those New Yorkers and their pro-sports teams, recipient of traveling exhibits from their museums, rub-offs of their cultural, architectural, and financial acumen, etc. You know, "Wall Street of the South"! Maybe even a left over subway car or two!
mtraininjax
November 03, 2009, 06:21:30 PMIs the Park View Inn gone yet?
What others are we tearing down in 2009?
Lunican
November 15, 2009, 10:20:00 PMFull Article:
http://query.nytimes.com/gst/abstract.html?res=9505EFDA1F38E733A25755C2A9639C946097D6CF
Lunican
November 15, 2009, 10:22:01 PMFull Article:
http://query.nytimes.com/mem/archive-free/pdf?res=9F01EFDD1139E733A2575AC0A9639C946097D6CF
Lunican
November 15, 2009, 10:25:36 PMIt appears that the NY Times covered this story extensively and led the way in raising funds for the rebuilding of Jacksonville. No wonder so many New York architects came down to help rebuild.
Lunican
November 15, 2009, 10:29:04 PMAlong with money, New York also sent relief trains and steamships.
http://query.nytimes.com/mem/archive-free/pdf?res=9F00E2D61730E033A25754C0A9639C946097D6CF
Ernest Street
November 15, 2009, 11:07:11 PMThanks Lunican, I love those "hand set type" archived articles.(still retaining a form of the Kings English no less)
It was interesting how the smaller merchants and partnerships donated more than the big companies.
And Pennsylvania Railroad was going to "Beat the record" getting relief supplies down to the southern tracks.
New York City loved us.
newzgrrl
April 04, 2010, 11:02:24 PMI'm finding this thread late in the game but glad to see it. My family has always had a strong interest in the fire because my great-grandmother's story is included in the book (Linda Frost Sheddan, page 132). She made an audio tape recording of her recollection before she died in 1977. (The tape disappeared in the mid-90s.) The Times-Union ran her story on the front of the Metro section in 1997. It was republished in 1999 and 2001.
http://jacksonville.com/tu-online/stories/022199/cel_sheddan.html
I, too, attended the marker unveiling in Hemming Park in 2001. The fire chief noted that the wind was picking up that day, just as it had in 1901. Big Jim sounded for 100 seconds at noon. Later in the afternoon, a historical marker was unveiled at the Afro-American Life Insurance Co. building at Ocean and Union.
That evening, the Wood and Foley book was released at a debut party at The Ritz, at which some of the stories from the book, including Linda Sheddan's, were read by interpreters. WJCT produced two movies at the time, one on the history of the fire and reflections from the book and another about wildfires in Florida. Also unveiled was a mock-up of the memorial now at the bottom of Market Street. The sculptor said it represented the city rising from the ashes. The bottom of the memorial has multiple pieces of metal with rough edges and a rough finish, and as the structure goes upward, it becomes cleaner and more polished.
Coolyfett
April 04, 2010, 11:41:26 PMGood stuff man...keep posting on da site
Wacca Pilatka
April 05, 2010, 09:49:25 AMNewzgrrl, thanks for sharing this. I always found Mrs. Sheddan's story to be the most intense and moving in the book.