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What to do with LaVilla?

The recent scquabble between the Mayor's Office and Jerry Holland over the need to construct an $8 million Supervisor of Elections office/warehouse complex near the Ritz Theatre has overlooked the question of if such a project is even worthy for this historically significant area. For those who question its significance, here is a brief summary behind the sites still standing in Florida's first urbanized African-American community.

Published December 12, 2012 in History      24 Comments    Open printer friendly version of this article Print Article

20. Fire Station Number 4 - 639 West Duval Street - 1944

Fire Station Number 4 opened in 1944, replacing a previous station at 618 West Adams Street.

21. 320 North Jefferson Street - 1901 and 1903

When LaVilla was annexed by the City of Jacksonville in 1887, it had a population of 3,000. These two family flat Queen Anne structures were built immediately following the Great Fire of 1901. These, along with 725 West Monroe Street and three relocated shot gun houses on Jefferson Street are all that remain of LaVilla's historic residential community.  

22. 318-326 North Broad Street - 1909/1904/1939

From left to right, 318, 324, and 326 North Broad Street combine with the Masonic Lodge and Richmond Hotel to form nearly 400 linear feet of historic buildings still standing.  Today, they provide us with the only remaining visual example of what LaVilla's urban density resembled during its heyday at street level.  These three buildings were constructed between 1904 and 1939.

23. Masonic Temple - 410 North Broad Street - 1912-1916

Although not designed by H.J. Klutho, the Masonic Temple at 410 Broad Street is one of the most elaborate Prairie School structures still remaining in Jacksonville.  This building was constructed in 1912 to house office space, retail stores, and to serve as a meeting center for the black community. The 1926 Negro Blue Book described it as "one of the finest buildings owned by Negroes in the world."

Image courtesy of Images of America: African-American Life in Jacksonville by Herman "Skip" Mason, Jr.

24. Richmond Hotel - 420 North Broad Street - 1909

Now Deloach Furniture, this building was the 48-room Richmond Hotel.  Operated by Mrs. Alice Kirkpatrick, during the Jim Crow era, it was a popular location for African-American celebrities visiting Jacksonville.  One block south of Ashley Street, Jazz era entertainers such as Duke Ellington, Cab Calloway, Ella Fitzergald, and Billie Holiday stayed at the Richmond, which included a second floor balcony for stars to greet large crowds of fans below.

25. New Center Hotel - 605 North Broad Street - 1916

605 North Broad Street opened as the Central Hotel in 1912. In 1935, the Jacksonville Negro Welfare League occupied one of its storefronts.  In 1947, the Jacksonville Negro Welfare League merged with a new Jacksonville branch of the National Urban League, officially becoming the Jacksonville Urban League.

Central Hotel floor plan. Courtesy of the City of Jacksonville Historic Preservation Office.

Central Hotel. Courtesy of the City of Jacksonville Historic Preservation Office

Central Hotel. Courtesy of the City of Jacksonville Historic Preservation Office

Central Hotel. Courtesy of the City of Jacksonville Historic Preservation Office

Central Hotel. Courtesy of the City of Jacksonville Historic Preservation Office

26. Old Stanton High School - 521 West Ashley Street - 1917

This site was the original location of the Stanton Normal School, which opened in April 10, 1869.  The school was named in honor of General Edwin M. Stanton, an outspoken abolitionist and Secretary of War under President Lincoln.  In 1877, President Ulysses Grant visited the school during a tour of Florida.  During the visit a six-year-old student named James Weldon Johnson raised his hand from the crowd and Grant shook it.  Johnson would go on to become the school's principal in 1894 expanding it to become the only high school for African-Americans in the city.

While serving as the principal, Johnson wrote "Lift Every Voice and Sing."  This song would later become known as the Negro National Anthem.  Johnson relocated to New York City in 1902, becoming a nationally famous composer, author, poet, diplomat, and civil rights orator.

As a result of one of the first civil-rights litigation cases in Jacksonville and the South, the existing building was constructed in 1917.  Today's Staton High School in Durkeeville replaced this school in 1953.  It then served as the Duval County Vocational School until closing in 1971.

27. Globe Theatre - 615 West Ashley Street - 1904

The Globe Theatre is all that remains of five African-American theatres that one lined LaVilla's Ashley Street.  Completed in 1912, Frank Crowd's Globe Theatre, along with the Airdome, Frolic, Strand, and Roosevelt Theatres, was a popular destination in what was known as the Harlem of the South.  

Of interesting note, on April 16, 1910, the first published account of blues singing on a public stage occurred at the Airdome, which was located on this block of Ashley Street.  During the Airdome's heyday, headliners included "Bojangles" Bill Robinson, Mahalia Jackson, and Wild Bill Elliott.

In 1932, the Globe Theatre building was acquired by Eartha Mary Magdelene White, who established the Clara White Mission in 1921.  In 1944, the Clara White Mission commissioned Henry J. Klutho for a $65,000 renovation job.  The Willie Smith Building, home to Florida Cute Rate Pharmacy and Hollywood Music Store was located next door.  The Hollywood Music Store opened in 1924 and was owned by Joe Higdon.  Higdon was a popular dance promoter and along with associate Frank Usher, attracted major entertainment acts to LaVilla.  The Willie Smith Building is now gone but in 2003, the Clara White Mission constructed a replacement on the site, designed with a similar architectural facade.

28. Genovar's Hall - 644 West Ashley Street - 1895

This structure was constructed in 1895 for Sebastian Genovar’s grocery business.  In 1902 the building became a saloon. By the 1920’s the upper floors became the Wynn Hotel, a popular lodging place for entertainers like Louis Armstrong. Armstrong preferred the Wynn, over the larger Richmond Hotel, because it was on the street (Ashley)  where all the action was. During the 1940’s two metal horse hitching rails in  front of the building became known as “the rails of hope”. This was a spot where  young musicians would hang out waiting for jobs. One of those was R.C. Robinson  who live a block away at 633 Church Street. Eventually Robinson became known as  the one and only Ray Charles.

Genovar's Hall can been seen to the right of Manuel "Chula Papa" Riveria's Manuel's Tap Room.  Manuel's Tap Room was located at 626 W. Ashley Street and described in the January 1942 issue of The Crisis, the magazine of the NAACP, as "the Finest of its kind in the South."  Manuel's has since been demolished.

29. Hillman-Platt Funeral Home - 525 West Beaver Street - 1916

In 1947, Lawton L. Pratt opened a funeral home in this building.  Pratt would go on to become an organizer of the Florida Negro Funeral Directors & Embalmer's Association, which worked to open the field of funeral services to women.  Pratt's slogan was "the funeral home of the community."

30. Ritz Theatre - 829 Davis Street - 1929/1998

Prior to desegregation, Davis Street was a major epicenter of commercial and entertainment oriented businesses for LaVilla and neighboring Sugar Hill. Originally constructed in 1929, the Ritz Theatre building's facade was included in the construction of the LaVilla Museum and theatre. 

Uncovering and Promoting Our History

Image courtesy of Images of America: African-American Life in Jacksonville by Herman "Skip" Mason, Jr.

LaVilla was an ethnically mixed neighboring city that evolved into Jacksonville's first Jewish enclave and later became the commercial and social center of Jacksonville's African-American community. This neighborhood helped pioneer two of the greatest forms of American music, Blues and Soul. Ray Charles, Ma Rainey, James Weldon Johnson, Zora Neale Hurston all spent considerable time here in many of the buildings still standing.  Its train station was the largest in the country south of Washington, DC and one of the city's top employers for six decades.

On the notorious side, with over 60 bordellos confined within a four block stretch, LaVilla's Ward Street red light district may have been one of the largest in the South.  As far as Southern urbanism goes, it's hard to find many places that once had the mixed use vibrancy of LaVilla's Railroad Row.  A compact place where the railroad, maritime, manufacturing, tourism, and red light industries all came together.  

LaVilla's Railroad Row on West Bay Street during the early 20th century. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.

There are significant pieces of its cultural makeup remaining despite previous efforts to cleanse the neighborhood of its history.  However, all recent reports have focused on is if the Supervisor of Elections (SOE) should built a new office/warehouse in the neighborhood or relocate to an existing city owned building.

A look across the country provides numerous examples of faux stories and settings to spur economic development and revitalization.  Oklahoma City made a canal for Bricktown.  Tampa created stories about pirates.  Atlanta actually thinks Sweet Auburn is the Harlem of the South.  However, what we have in our possession is our history.  A storied one that goes well past the city limits of Jacksonville.  A setting that can't be recreated by the Disneys, St. Johns Town Centers, or Nocatees of America.

Given what remains of LaVilla, it appears we're completely ignoring the potential of this nationally historic significant bastion of African-American history literally sitting in our laps.  Before moving forward with the idea of building a SOE office/warehouse on the largest remaining undeveloped property in LaVilla, perhaps it's time we at least determine what we desire the ultimate future of LaVilla to be and the role it should play in the creation of a vibrant downtown.

Article by Ennis Davis

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triclops i

December 12, 2012, 04:04:24 AM


December 12, 2012, 04:33:03 AM
Great history lesson Ennis. Thank you.
Was 2012-732 removing the chairs from Hemming Plaza introduced last night at the full meeting of the Jacksonville city council?
Today at 2pm 1st floor city hall our new DIA Board will hear a presentation about our future branding for our city and a last minute presentation about 2012-732.
2025 is 2012


December 12, 2012, 08:56:02 AM
great tour Ennis!

ben says

December 12, 2012, 09:00:02 AM
Tried to invest in that building in the first picture with the multicolored 'windows'--unfortunately, the agent was one of the worst I've ever dealt with.


December 12, 2012, 09:16:10 AM
Any of these buildings up for sale?

Adam W

December 12, 2012, 09:22:09 AM
Looks like they've got a lot of great parking in Lavilla.


December 12, 2012, 09:29:34 AM
That is a wonderful history lesson!  Thanks so much for all your hard work!!!


December 12, 2012, 09:35:13 AM
good stuff!

ben says

December 12, 2012, 09:43:41 AM
Any of these buildings up for sale?

Yes...2 or 3 I can think of off the top of my head. Like many agents in this city, the one I worked with was completely delusional


December 12, 2012, 10:20:42 AM
wonderful Ennis.  Thanks


December 12, 2012, 10:58:54 AM
What a treasure of information! Thanks for all your hard work.


December 12, 2012, 12:16:34 PM
Is the Old Stanton School being used today?  It looks to be in good condition.

The Masonic Lodge is a beautiful building.  I wish someone would occupy it.   

Cheshire Cat

December 12, 2012, 12:48:21 PM
Great piece Ennis and I love the research and history you put together.  You know I have done a lot of work and research in La Villa as well and probably have original pictures you have never seen of some of the beautiful homes that were torn down that still had character and structural integrity.  All the homes as you have shown were not all row houses, not by a long shot.  What you also showed in the pictures is that LaVilla was very "uptown" In its day.  Men and women were well dressed when they visited local businesses and were themselves respectful, educated, talented and business minded individuals. 

Of course I was happy to see the "Historic Brewster Hospital" in the article as well.   I am very proud of that save in LaVilla.  Did you know that when the building was under restoration, we actually discovered that 1885 is not when it was built?  The original structure was older.  It began as a four room winter home with an offsite kitchen and outhouse.  The first building and smoke stack was uncovered during restoration.  The build date is believed to be around 1865 with the first "Italianate" features added in 1885, which is when the date in the porch trim was added.  Then some time later it underwent yet a third addition that was added early enough to still make it "historic".  Can't remember the date of that addition right off the bat.  Up in the rafters of the original structure and on a support beam there are the signatures of myself, Councilwoman Glorious Johnson and all the Brewster Nurses.  Now you all know a secret about the building as well.  :)  The tale of the destruction of LaVilla is a long one and can only be fully understood when the background stories of race, developers, passing out of city money and private agenda's are discussed.  Fortunately, many of those influences have lost power and stature and perhaps it is a good time to do as you have done and revisit the issue and save what is left of the historic community of LaVilla.  I will add more info later if you like. 

Debbie Thompson

December 12, 2012, 01:15:27 PM
Absolutley, Cheshire.  It is incredibly sad what was lost, and so important to save the rest.  Ennis, thanks so much for the history of some of those old buildings I have so admired as I drive home up Broad Street every day.  Knowing the history makes them even more wonderful in my eyes.

Cheshire Cat

December 12, 2012, 06:55:25 PM
Apparently the city is now investigating commercial use for the property in LaVilla that the SOE is interested in.

Mike D

December 12, 2012, 09:36:58 PM
Great article filled with important history.  Excellent job of pulling it all together and reminding us of the forgotten history of this part of town.  I learned a lot in this one!


December 12, 2012, 11:17:49 PM

LaVilla's Railroad Row on West Bay Street during the early 20th century. Courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.

Fantastic tour Lakelander! 

I'm still trying to square this photo with the caption, the building on the right appears to be the massive A & EC Terminal Station, but that station was behind "railroad row" and not easily visible from Bay Street. The double track streetcar line DOES appear to be Bay Street, but there were several other lines in La Villa, a bunch of which were pulled up and moved around. Could this be another building that we haven't ID'ed?

Anybody have any ideas?


December 13, 2012, 12:33:46 AM
^That image is taken of Bay Street, looking west, in the vicinity of Madison Street (if it were extended to Bay).  Here is a sanborn map showing the general urban footprint:


December 13, 2012, 12:36:25 AM
The tale of the destruction of LaVilla is a long one and can only be fully understood when the background stories of race, developers, passing out of city money and private agenda's are discussed.  Fortunately, many of those influences have lost power and stature and perhaps it is a good time to do as you have done and revisit the issue and save what is left of the historic community of LaVilla.  I will add more info later if you like.

I'd love to hear more.  I'm taking you out for coffee when I get back to town after the Christmas.


December 13, 2012, 09:58:55 AM
LaVilla offers us a broad scope of destination sites. As stated the ethnic history is rich, and that is in addition to railroad history, streetcars, music, artists etc.

The first demolition of the neighborhood on a large scale was when they put the Jacksonville Expressway Authority's highway (the future I-95) right through the western quarter.  It would be nice to know the history of those buildings located just west of the 'expressway' in the vicinity of the 'old brickyard' or 'brick church.'

Cheshire Cat

December 13, 2012, 05:06:36 PM
I will look forward to that coffee Ennis.  :)

heights unknown

June 06, 2013, 05:29:06 PM
There is no more LaVilla; I mean, the real LaVilla that I knew when I was a child (age 8 to 11). Those of you who know me and have read my posts in the past know that I was raised, and lived in LaVilla from 1965 to 1968 (817 West Duval Street long torn down), before my Mom and I moved to Fort Myers. You can never recapture the taste, flair, flamboyance, history, and culture of what was LaVilla; so in my opinion, the best thing to do is leave that buried, at rest have you. But in respect to LaVilla, in and of itself, bring in developments that will make it notable, alive, and noteworthy with a definite identity to Jacksonvillians and those visitors from outside of the City. One thing I would like to see is LaVilla transformed into a business and residential district and culture, existing side by side in LaVilla...akin to what Miami did with Brickell but with a Jacksonville taste; yes, nice mid to high rise skyscrapers, both residential and commercial, with stores and other businesses lined around in support of the people who live and work not only around LaVilla, but also within the new neighborhood itself, and, I think this would greatly complement and support the new Train Station/Transportation Center, and also the new construction going on south of LaVilla in Brooklyn. If not this, then make LaVilla full of residential low to mid rise structures, along with apartment buildings, stores, gas stations, etc., where anyone of any race can live there.


June 06, 2013, 06:04:06 PM
Medium-density neighborhood with 5-10 story mixed-use buildings on Broad St, Beaver St and Forsyth or Bay St with primarily residential (rowhouses/townhouses, 3-4 story apt buildings) filling in the rest, with a park/square on one of the currently vacant blocks around Adams and Lee or Lee/Church.


July 13, 2013, 08:53:47 PM
Who could have foreseen in our fervent wish to sit next to White folks in diners, we would lose our civic identity?
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