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Ruins of Jacksonville: Main Street

Metro Jacksonville takes a look at Main Street's evolution over the last century.

Published February 4, 2010 in History      28 Comments    Open printer friendly version of this article Print Article

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After the Great Fire of 1901, Main Street became a major focal point in the revitalization of a new and exciting Jacksonville.  In Downtown, Main Street quickly became a major retail destination for Jacksonville residents and visitors.  Major chains once located along Main Street included S.H. Kress & Co., Woolworth, Lane Drugs, JCPenney, McCrory and Grant's.


Bay & Main after the Great Fire of 1901

Quote
The Great Fire of 1901 was one of the worst disasters in Florida history and the largest urban fire in the Southeast. It was similar in scale and destruction to the 1871 Great Chicago Fire.

Origin

Around noon of Friday, May 3, 1901 a spark from a kitchen fire during the lunch hour at a mattress factory set mattresses filled with Spanish moss on fire at the factory, located in an area known as LaVilla. The fire was soon discovered and its magnitude was underestimated. The causers thought it could be put out with only a few buckets of water and consequently did not sound an alarm until the fire had grown beyond their control.


Aftermath

The fire swept through 146 city blocks, destroyed over 2,368 buildings and left almost 10,000 people homeless all in the course of eight hours. It is said the glow from the flames could be seen in Savannah, Georgia; smoke plumes in Raleigh, North Carolina.

Florida Governor William S. Jennings declared a state of martial law in Jacksonville and dispatched several state militia units to help. Reconstruction started immediately, and the city was returned to civil authority on May 17. Despite the widespread damage, only seven deaths were reported.

The George A. Brewster Hospital and School of Nurse Training, which later became Methodist Medical Center, opened to treat African-American victims of the Great Fire of 1901.

St. Andrew's Episcopal Church, built of bricks in 1887, was the only major church in the city that survived the fire.


Reconstruction

Famed New York architect Henry John Klutho helped rebuild the city. Klutho and other architects, enamored by the "Prairie Style" of architecture then being popularized by architect Frank Lloyd Wright in Chicago and other Midwestern cities, designed exuberant local buildings with a Florida flair. While many of Klutho's buildings were demolished by the 1980s, a number of his creations remain, including the St. James Building from 1911 (a former department store that is now Jacksonville's City Hall) and the Morocco Temple from 1910. The Klutho Apartments, in Springfield, were recently restored and converted into office space by local charity Fresh Ministries. Despite the losses of the last several decades, Jacksonville still has one of the largest collections of Prairie Style buildings (particularly residences) outside the Midwest.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Fire_of_1901



Less than a decade after the Great Fire



Looking south from Main & Bay Streets.



An aerial of Main Street in the early 1900s



Main Street around 1910



The Woolworth Building at Main & Forsyth in 1910.  Today, this building houses Purdue Office Interiors.



Main Street in 1917



The opening of the Main Street Bridge in 1941






Quote
The Main Street Bridge was the second Jacksonville bridge built across the St. Johns River. It carries four lanes of traffic, and is signed as U.S. Route 1/US 90. The lift bridge opened in July 1941 at a cost of $1.5 million. In 1957 it was named after Mayor John T. Alsop, Jr., but continues to be known, even on road signs, as the Main Street Bridge.

When the bridge was first built, its north end was at the intersection of Main Street and Water Street. Traffic continued north on Main Street, with a one-way pair being made at some point; after that, northbound traffic turned right on Water Street and left on Ocean Street.

In 1978, several approach bridges and ramps were built. Main Street now goes over Water Street, and a ramp now carries all traffic from the bridge diagonally into Ocean Street, with a second bridge over Water Street. Ramps provide access to and from Water Street.

On the Southbank, the bridge originally ended at Miami Road (now Prudential Drive). When Jacksonville's original expressway system was built, in 1958, ramps were built connecting this intersection to the new expressway (now I-95) connecting the Fuller Warren Bridge and the Acosta Bridge to Phillips Highway (U.S. Route 1) and Atlantic Boulevard (US 90).

In 1968, a flyover was built between the ramps to I-95 and the bridge, with frontage roads continuing to serve Miami Road and several other cross streets. Thus there is now uninterrupted traffic flow from I-95 to the Main Street Bridge.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_Street_Bridge_(Jacksonville)



Foot traffic on Main was common in 1941


Aerials of downtown over Main Street in 1948.







An accident at Main & Ashley Streets in 1949.



The Main Street Bridge in 1957.



Main Street during the 1960s.




Downtown's Main Street Today

The difference is day and night. What was once a vibrant street filled with diverse urban architecture and a mix of uses has been converted into a one-way "freeway" with stoplights surrounded by surface parking lots and parking garages.
















Springfield Historic District

Main Street has always served as the main conduit for travel between Downtown Jacksonville and Springfield.  Springfield's early boom years can be partially attributed to the extension of the streetcar along the Main Street corridor.


Main Street in 1904.



Main Street in 1910.


"The Main Street Railway"

Quote
The Pine Street Railway, was formed by B. Upton and built a line up Pine (Main Street) to 8Th Street. In 1884 the company was leased to G.A.Blackstone, who constructed a popular resort, skating rink, dinner hall and restaurant. The project fell short of paying for the improvements and the transit line so the property was sold to S. B Hubbard. Hubbard extended the street railway East on 8Th to Walnut, South on Walnut to First and West on First back to Pine. When the namesake "Pine Street" became "Main Street," the company changed it's name to "The Main Street Railway."

When news of Spague's experiment with electric powered trolleys in Richmond, Virginia, swept across the land. Jacksonville was caught up in "electric fever." The Main Street Railway, was first to string electric wire and bring in the new era of clean transport to Jacksonville. On February 24, 1893, the first electric streetcar rolled up Main Street from Bay to the Water Works at 1St. By March, the entire Main Street Railway was ready for electric service, and the cars were running up Main and around the Walnut Street loop on 10 minute headway's.

For more information: http://lightrailjacksonville.webs.com/jacksonvilletrolleyhistory.htm



Main Street shortly after the Great Fire in Springfield.



Main Street in 1913.



Fire Station Number 2 in 1915.



Main & 8th in the 1920s.



The Capital Theatre in 1927, near 8th & Main.



The Springfield Atlantic Bank in 1938.



Crossing the S-Line (looking NW), at Main & 12th, in 1944.



Crossing the S-Line (looking SE), at Main & 12th, in 1944.



Main & 5th in 1948.



Main & 8th in 1958 (north).



Main & 8th in 1958 (south).



Lovett's Grocery (Main & 15th) in 1949.

Quote
When Jax resident William "Bill" Lovett passed away in 1978, the Times-Union called him "perhaps the South's least known multimillionaire."  The eighty-seven-year-old tycoon had created a corporate empire reportedly worth $100 million -- or over $285 million in today's currency!   In large part, the Lovett fortune came from ships, shipyards, supermarkets, and a partnership in Merrill Lynch.  (CLICK HERE for a photo of Mr. Lovett.)    

A flyweight who stood 5'7'' and weighed 130 pounds, Mr. Lovett proved a heavyweight in the retail industry.  Based in Jax, the Winn-Lovett Grocery Company consisted of 73 stores, a sizeable chain at the time.  In 1939, Mr. Lovett sold his controlling interest in this business to a company that eventually became Winn-Dixie.  Although Mr. Lovett no longer owned the stores, the future Winn-Dixie company retained the Lovett name, as shown above.  

Later, Mr. Lovett possessed full or part interest in 200 Piggly Wiggly supermarkets, and he headed the Piggly Wiggly Corporation itself as president and chairman of the board.  This pioneer grocery chain was comprised of about 1,000 stores.  

During the 1960s, moreover, Mr. Lovett purchased two locally-known, competing shipyards.  These were the Merrill-Stevens yard on East Bay Street downtown and the old Gibbs Shipyard on the Southbank, located in the vicinity of today's Charthouse Restaurant.  After merging them into Jacksonville Shipyards Inc., he sold the business to Fruehauf Corporation in 1969.  At one point, the multimillionaire also commanded a fleet of 70 steamships.

Mr. Lovett hailed from the small Florida town of Monticello, near Tallahassee.  For many years, the publicity-shy financier lived in a handsome home overlooking the St. Johns River.  The dwelling still stands on Challen Avenue in the historic Jax neighborhood of Avondale.  Until late in life, Mr. Lovett drove himself to work in one of two 1966 Cadillacs, arriving at about 10:00 A.M. at a spartan downtown office on East Adams Street.  He toiled steadily, breaking only for a meal of peanut butter crackers and buttermilk.  The magnate would leave each evening at 6:00, taking home more work.  One family member described him as being quite devoted to his enterprises.  

In addition to his financial achievements, Mr. Lovett often contributed to a range of charitable causes.  His family has remained one of the River City's most affluent, a mover & shaker on the business scene.

http://www.jaxhistory.com/Jacksonville Story/Picture of Supermarket, Lovett's and Stewarts.htm



Main & 18th in 1949.


Main & 18th in 1949.



Springfield's Main Street Today

Unlike the downtown experience, Main Street still maintains a portion of it's historic urban integrity in the Springfield Historic District.  
















The Future



The urban core of Jacksonville hasn't been the same since rail was ripped out of Main Street and downtown was intentionally isolated from Springfield and other Northside neighborhoods.  The restoration of the Main Street corridor remains a critical piece to solving the age old puzzle of bringing ultimate vibrancy back to the streets of the Urban Core.

Article by Ennis Davis

Historic Photographs from the Florida Photographic Collection:
Featuring over 160,000 digitized photographs from the State Library and Archives of Florida, the Florida Photographic Collection is the most complete online portrait of Florida available--one that draws its strength from family pictures, the homes of Floridians, their work, and their pastimes.[/i]
http://www.floridamemory.com/PhotographicCollection/





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» 28 Comments

billy

February 04, 2010, 07:25:28 AM
Great story.
Springfield Atlantic Bank is an odd looking bilding.

BridgeTroll

February 04, 2010, 08:09:19 AM
Great article... Love the large numbers of street cars up and down main street.  Were these lines privately owned and operated?  Were the rail tracks privately constructed and funded?  Did the city fund the construction of the lines and a private company buy the trolleys and run them?  If there was such a public/private coexistence then can it be achieved now?

Quote
The Pine Street Railway, was formed by B. Upton and built a line up Pine (Main Street) to 8Th Street. In 1884 the company was leased to G.A.Blackstone, who constructed a popular resort, skating rink, dinner hall and restaurant. The project fell short of paying for the improvements and the transit line so the property was sold to S. B Hubbard. Hubbard extended the street railway East on 8Th to Walnut, South on Walnut to First and West on First back to Pine. When the namesake "Pine Street" became "Main Street," the company changed it's name to "The Main Street Railway."

When news of Spague's experiment with electric powered trolleys in Richmond, Virginia, swept across the land. Jacksonville was caught up in "electric fever." The Main Street Railway, was first to string electric wire and bring in the new era of clean transport to Jacksonville. On February 24, 1893, the first electric streetcar rolled up Main Street from Bay to the Water Works at 1St. By March, the entire Main Street Railway was ready for electric service, and the cars were running up Main and around the Walnut Street loop on 10 minute headway's.

ralpho37

February 04, 2010, 12:24:25 PM
It's a ghost town down there now compared to what it used to be...

iloveionia

February 04, 2010, 06:27:51 PM
I love the pictures of Main Street in Springfield.  REALLY love the tree canopy.  REALLY makes a stark difference with the canopy gone.  Why established trees are cut is beyond me.  It seems to be a practice in many cities.

DemocraticNole

February 04, 2010, 09:24:39 PM
Anybody know what year they changed the name of Miami Road to Prudential Drive? They ought to change it back to Miami Road. Prudential Drive sounds like some street in the exurbs off of the interstate with boring office parks.

If the city really wants to make Main Street more of a destination, they ought to make it two-ways all the way through.

thelakelander

February 04, 2010, 09:32:21 PM
The name was probably changed when the Prudential building (now the Aetna Building) opened in 1955.  At the time, it was the tallest building in the Southeast.

stjr

February 04, 2010, 11:06:21 PM
Great story.
Springfield Atlantic Bank is an odd looking bilding.

I had the same observation, Billy.  The two stars of David on there tell me it may have been a small or temporary synagogue at one time before it was a bank.  I don't think that would have been something the bank would have added.

By the way, Atlantic Bank was a large Jax bank that expanded statewide becoming one of the state's 5 largest banks.  Led by bank legend Billy Walker (still alive), it was the first bank acquired by First Union in Florida and established Jax as First Union's Florida HQ's.  First Union eventually acquired two other very large Florida banks, each of which at one time were the largest banks in Florida: Jax-based Florida National Bank (of Ed Ball days) and Miami-based Southeast Banks (bought through FDIC out of Chapter 7 bankruptcy).  First Union eventually acquired Wachovia, taking their name, and was itself acquired last year by Wells Fargo.


stjr

February 04, 2010, 11:19:59 PM
I note note the bounty of street level retail in the older pix as well as covered sidewalks and large awnings.  Now, those are pedestrian friendly streets that stand in stark contrast to the concrete and brick walls that represent Main Street downtown today.

What is worse, is that the architecture of modern Main Street continues to spread to other Downtown streets like a cancer, signaling a possible fatal illness for Downtown.  Office towers (BBT, ATT, BofA, Modis, Wachovia, etc.), government buildings (Federal building, Federal Courthouse, City Hall, JEA Chiller plant, JEA Building, City Hall Annex, Library, new and old County Courthouses, etc.), parking garages, hotels (Omni, Hyatt), LaVilla projects, Condo Towers (Berkman, Peninsula, Strand, etc.), empty lots - none of these offer street level retail today. The lack of continuous retail strips lining both sides of a street for blocks at a time should be a major concern for all Downtown lovers.  Until the City insist on this for all Downtown development, Downtown will suffer.

Pocket parks, street rebuilds, landscaping - will do no good without designing buildings featuring retail lining streets.  Downtown planners would do good to visit "Main Street" at Disney World for a refresher of what works.  A doctorate in planning is not required.

904Scars

February 26, 2010, 07:57:08 PM
Couldn't have said it better stjr! Main St just looks so boring and dull now. God what I would do to see some of those old building rise from the dead. I was recently traveling through Macon, GA man their historic distric and building are simply gorgeous. Jacksonville needs a big slap in the face.

Wacca Pilatka

February 26, 2010, 09:38:10 PM
The name was probably changed when the Prudential building (now the Aetna Building) opened in 1955.  At the time, it was the tallest building in the Southeast.



Jacksonville named quite a few downtown/urban core streets after office buildings.  Not just Prudential but Independent Dr., Gulf Life Dr., even some more obscure ones off Riverside like Computer Power (Court?) and Peninsular Pl.

stjr

February 26, 2010, 09:50:42 PM
Jacksonville named quite a few downtown/urban core streets after office buildings.  Not just Prudential but Independent Dr., Gulf Life Dr., even some more obscure ones off Riverside like Computer Power (Court?) and Peninsular Pl.

There is also Coast Line Drive, named after Atlantic Coast Line RR, now CSX, that ran along the bulkhead and under the Main Street Bridge.  Most of it was swallowed by the Riverwalk improvements and Jax Landing but a remnant remains in front of the Hyatt.

In the suburbs, there is Centurion Way, named after the logo icon of American Express when they HQ'd their Optima Card operations here.  I believe Citicard is also on a street bearing the company name. 

Gulf Life drive is now Riverplace Drive, still named after the office building.  For those new to Jax, Computer Power became Alltel Information Systems and is now Fidelity Information Systems.

samiam

February 26, 2010, 09:59:14 PM
Does anyone know the location of the Market that Market street is named after and when it was active.
I'm not talking about the Winn Dixie or any other modern store

Dan B

February 26, 2010, 10:26:23 PM
I believe it was named after wharf market, at the river. Market St in Springfield was originally Helen St.

samiam

February 26, 2010, 10:32:00 PM
Thanks Dan, do you have any idea what year it changed from Helen St.

heights unknown

February 26, 2010, 11:15:42 PM
I believe it was named after wharf market, at the river. Market St in Springfield was originally Helen St.

There was a red light district on market that the locals referred to as the "meat market;" thus naming it market street.

"HU"

JUST KIDDING LOL!

samiam

February 26, 2010, 11:22:37 PM
There is some truth to that, Market street from 4TH to 7TH was was hooker centeral for about 20 years starting in the early 80's, The last holdouts where driven off by me in 2006

Ocklawaha

February 27, 2010, 12:37:12 AM
Sorry guys, but this isn't how market street got it's name. While there might have been a red light district somewhere on it in the far north of Springfield, the street would have been long established. In fact Market is one of the two first streets platted for the new "City of Jacksonville."

Before incorporation, there was a fairly close group of farms located on the North bank of the St. Johns River. This would date from about 1800 to 1830. Besides farmers, and a few range rancher, we had a few fishermen, there were blacksmith's, ferryman, Indian traders, sailors, teamsters, wheelwrights, etc... on the various local plantations. Otherwise the area's claim to fame is "The Cow Ford." When we finally got a buyer or trader of produce here, he opened a small Market under a large Bay Tree. This was at the corner of today's BAY and MARKET STREETS.  This is where the first survey of the new incorporated City of Jacksonville started at the benchmark located there today.

There was a hot red light district in the old hotels on Houston Street, just a block north of the Jacksonville Terminal.



OCKLAWAHA

stephendare

February 27, 2010, 12:46:48 AM
Sorry guys, but this isn't how market street got it's name. While there might have been a red light district somewhere on it in the far north of Springfield, the street would have been long established. In fact Market is one of the two first streets platted for the new "City of Jacksonville."

Before incorporation, there was a fairly close group of farms located on the North bank of the St. Johns River. This would date from about 1800 to 1830. Besides farmers, and a few range rancher, we had a few fishermen, there were blacksmith's, ferryman, Indian traders, sailors, teamsters, wheelwrights, etc... on the various local plantations. Otherwise the area's claim to fame is "The Cow Ford." When we finally got a buyer or trader of produce here, he opened a small Market under a large Bay Tree. This was at the corner of today's BAY and MARKET STREETS.  This is where the first survey of the new incorporated City of Jacksonville started at the benchmark located there today.

There was a hot red light district in the old hotels on Houston Street, just a block north of the Jacksonville Terminal.



OCKLAWAHA

Hate to tell ya bob, but the one thing that is true about the post is that the Red Light District was on Houston Street.

The area (springfield especially) was far more settled than our present history accounts for.  And while cows could ford across the st johns, the area's claim to fame had way more to do with the trade betwixt the creeks, seminoles, french, spanish, and english than cows crossing the river.

What retards the understanding of the history can mostly be laid right at the feet of the conflicting land ownership grants and laws.  Because of the multiple Royal ownerships of the State and the switchoffs from one to another, land fraud was not only common, it was indecipherable.

The resulting controversies when forcibly (and arbitrarily) resolved were so full of acrimony that the best policy seemed to consist mainly of simply pretending that preceeding towns and ownerships---with all their various subdivisions and developments (and in many cases, residents) simply did not exist.

Certainly the areas of Oakland and Fairfield were completely replatted on top of an already existing street grid.  And the older maps show more buildings and structures than maps only 10 years later after the original consolidation of the city was undertaken.

There were farms here, no mistake about it.  But there was way more housing and infrastructure to support the turpentine, logging, and furniture making industries here than previously guessed about...

samiam

February 27, 2010, 12:48:26 AM
Way cool OCK Thank you
I have been looking for that info for years. To bad we cant recreate a market like Charleston

samiam

February 27, 2010, 12:56:51 AM
Now I'm confused, But I did find evidence of a prior house under a house I am working on now. I found a brick pier that did not support anything and the bricks where huge compared to the ones used for the current house. The current house was built in 1914

Miss Fixit

February 27, 2010, 02:03:19 PM
Thanks Dan, do you have any idea what year it changed from Helen St.

Sometime before 1897.  Hubbard Street was then known as Adeline and Main was Pine.

sheclown

February 27, 2010, 07:47:10 PM
Great article and exciting pictures.

Ocklawaha

February 28, 2010, 02:30:14 AM
There was a hot red light district in the old hotels on Houston Street, just a block north of the Jacksonville Terminal.
Hate to tell ya bob, but the one thing that is true about the post is that the Red Light District was on Houston Street.

There were farms here, no mistake about it.  But there was way more housing and infrastructure to support the turpentine, logging, and furniture making industries here than previously guessed about...

Don't know why you'd "hate to tell me..." I was responding to HU's prostitution on Hubbard comment?? Anyway, we're on the same page about Houston Street, absolutely the best, I mean deplorable.

The time frame I'm speaking of in the 1820's was really before we saw any industrialization. We actually didn't even have a town, more like some fairly close neighbors, eventually enough to support a little market. Again we agree completely, by the War of Yankee Aggression, the place was a booming metropolis.


OCKLAWAHA

stephendare

February 28, 2010, 02:39:53 AM
Thats what Im telling you Bob.

Before industrialization we were still a very busy busy city.

finehoe

February 28, 2010, 09:38:56 AM
What retards the understanding of the history...

Oh, god, now Sarah Palin will be coming after you.

 Cheesy

sheclown

August 08, 2010, 07:24:42 PM
Would it make sense to have a "Main Street Association?"  A CDC responsible for Main Street from river to river?  An organization removed from neighborhood politics and focused on developing this one road, from river to river.

Ocklawaha

August 08, 2010, 08:06:26 PM
No augment on that either Stephen, the city was home to a number of large sawmills and shipbuilding was key to our early success. Probably the most incredible sawmill story is the one I believe was around Talleyrand, when the Federal gun boats came up river, being from the "old country" he raised the Union Jack and spared his mill!

Several of the Federal occupation troops commented on the potential and industry of the town, setting the stage for a post war land rush. Why were we more like Jersey City then any other southern city? Easy, because at the end of the war we were flooded with Yankee's that remembered our perfect climate and business opportunities.

Frankly the ship building was a result of the great Water Oaks that grow in abundance here. When the Spanish first saw them they thought "corner the world furniture market." Too bad that they soon discovered that the Water Oak will split all to pieces if it is not wet...  WET! That was the Key! Wet! If you keep it wet it will not split! This was the start of the great ship building industry of Jacksonville. Keel's made of Water Oak were nearly as strong as steel and soon the worlds ship builders were begging for our hand.



OCKLAWAHA
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