Handmade Artisan Food Products: Is this Culinary Movement the Future?

[stephendare]

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/25/dining/25brooklyn.html?_r=1&em

This is such an awesome and easy way to do things.  It worked a bit like this in Muncie, and not too long ago it did here locally as well.

TO get the slightly battered convection oven for their new Brooklyn chocolate factory, Rick and Michael Mast traded 250 chocolate bars.

The chocolate is as good as legal tender for Andrew Tarlow and Mark Firth, owners of Marlow & Sons, the restaurant and specialty shop that bartered away the oven. “We can’t keep it in stock,” Mr. Tarlow said. “It sells better than anything else.”

About two years ago the Masts were trading truffles for beers at a local bar. Now Mast Brothers Chocolate has a national following as one of the few producers in the country, and the only one in the city, to make chocolate by hand from cacao beans they’ve roasted, in that oven. These days, with a kitchen and a bit of ambition, you can start to make a name for yourself in Brooklyn. The borough has become an incubator for a culinary-minded generation whose idea of fun is learning how to make something delicious and finding a way to sell it.

These Brooklynites, most in their 20s and 30s, are hand-making pickles, cheeses and chocolates the way others form bands and artists’ collectives. They have a sense of community and an appreciation for traditional methods and flavors. They also share an aesthetic that’s equal parts 19th and 21st century, with a taste for bold graphics, salvaged wood and, for the men, scruffy beards.

Rick Mast, 32, said he and his brother were initially attracted to the borough because it was cheaper than Manhattan. “But now I think the real draw is the creativity,” he said. “In Brooklyn, to be into food is do it yourself, to get your hands dirty, to roll up your sleeves. You want to peek in the kitchen in the back, as opposed to being served in the front.”

Gabrielle Langholtz, the editor of Edible Brooklyn, which chronicles the borough’s food scene, said it has grown along with the arrival of what she calls the “new demographic.”

“It’s that guy in the band with the big plastic glasses who’s already asking for grass-fed steak and knows about nibs,” Ms. Langholtz said.

“Ten years ago all of these people hadn’t moved to Brooklyn yet,” she added, comparing Brooklyn today to Berkeley in the 1970s. “There’s a relationship to food that comes with that approach to the universe,” Ms. Langholtz said. “Every person you pass has read Michael Pollan, every person has thought about joining a raw milk club, and if they haven’t made ricotta, they want to.”

The prevailing attitude is anticorporate, she said.

“Pre-industrial revolution tactics with food,” is how Frank Castronovo describes what he and Frank Falcinelli are up to at Prime Meats, a restaurant, specialty shop and butcher they are starting in Carroll Gardens, as well as Delightful Coffee, a cafe that will share a warehouse with the new Stumptown Coffee Roasters in Red Hook.

Along with butchering whole animals, Mr. Castronovo and Mr. Falcinelli, the owners of Frankies Spuntino restaurants in Brooklyn and the Lower East Side of Manhattan, will be making their own charcuterie at Prime Meats.

“The whole process, truthfully, will take a long time.” Mr. Falcinelli said. “The aged stuff will take a year to understand. Pâté will take a few months.”

Most of the artisans started simply and have stayed simple, like Salvatore Bklyn, makers of a superbly light ricotta. “We were selling it out of the back of a truck,” Betsy Devine, who makes the ricotta along with her partner, Rachel Mark, said of their first retail efforts. Now their product is in eight stores.

They learned their craft on a visit to Tuscany. The Masts essentially taught themselves. Others, like Tom Mylan at Marlow & Daughters, a butcher shop opened in December by the owners of Marlow & Sons, found mentors.

Mr. Mylan apprenticed himself last year at Fleisher’s, a highly regarded butcher shop in Kingston, N.Y., where he slept in the owners’ TV room for a month and a half.

At Marlow & Daughters, all of the butchering is done in plain sight. “We do this out on the floor because we want you to see the difference,” Mr. Mylan said. “We can tell you it’s all local, and it’s all pastured, and buzzword, buzzword, buzzword, but until you take out a whole animal and put it on the table people have no idea what it means to bring really good meat into the city and break it down.”

Mr. Mylan also teaches butchering at the Brooklyn Kitchen, a kitchen supply store in Williamsburg. He demonstrates with a whole pig. Every student goes home with six pounds of fresh pork.

“The classes have turned out to be much more of a success than I imagined,” said Harry Rosenblum, who opened the Brooklyn Kitchen with his wife, Taylor Erkkinen, in 2006.

Next month, Bob McClure, of McClure’s Pickles, will teach pickling there, and later this spring the Masts will teach chocolate-making.

“We’ve become something like a community,” Mr. Rosenblum added, explaining that the store holds the occasional potluck and has a food literature book club. When baking no-knead bread in Dutch ovens was popular a couple of years ago, customers who bought the pots often returned with gifts of freshly baked bread.

The Brooklyn Kitchen carries major brands, but it is the sole retailer for knives from Cut Brooklyn, a local specialty knife maker.

“It’s difficult to keep those guys stocked,” said Joel Bukiewicz, Cut Brooklyn’s owner and solitary employee. “It’s like sweeping a dirt floor.”

Maybe that’s because Mr. Bukiewicz takes 10 to 12 hours to fashion one eight-inch chef’s knife. In an average week he will make between four and six knives. He first learned how to make hunting knives in Georgia, and started creating kitchen knives in his small Gowanus workshop in 2007.

“There’s an appreciation here for craftsmanship and people who work with their hands,” Mr. Bukiewicz said. “I had no idea there was going to be this convergence of artists, artisans and foodculture in Brooklyn.”

To design a boning knife, Mr. Bukiewicz has been sitting in on Mr. Mylan’s butchering classes and taking note of how his hands move.

That sort of collaboration is common.

Two weeks ago Sixpoint Craft Ales, in Red Hook, introduced Dubbel Trubbel, an ale made with cacao nibs from Mast Brothers Chocolate. Sixpoint Craft Ales already brews Gorilla Warfare, an American porter made with Ethiopian Yirgacheffe from Gorilla Coffee, the Park Slope cafe and roaster. At Wheelhouse Pickles, based in Park Slope, Jon Orren uses wort, a byproduct of brewing from Sixpoint Craft Ales, to flavor his Ploughman’s pickle, a mild, earthy relish made with Greenmarket root vegetables.

And McClure’s Pickles, of Williamsburg, is making a strong, grainy mustard with Brooklyn Brewery’s Brown Ale. (Mr. McClure, by the way, sometimes pays his picklers in pickles.)

Local store owners play an important role, more collaborators than simply merchants. Urban Rustic, Spuyten Duyvil Grocery, Blue Apron Foods, Bedford Cheese Shop and Marlow & Daughters all make a point of carrying Brooklyn-made foods.

Stinky Bklyn, a cheese shop in Carroll Gardens, carries wild boar pâté made by one of the salesmen at Smith & Vine, its sibling wine shop across the street. Robert Fischman, the fishmonger at Greene Grape Provisions in Fort Greene, sometimes sells fluke or striped bass he catches himself on one of the charter boats that departs from Sheepshead Bay. And later this spring the owners of Franny’s restaurant in Prospect Heights will open Bklyn Larder, which will sell salumi cured in-house.

Steven Manning, a manager at Urban Rustic, said he wants to make things easy for local food makers.

“There’s no red tape,” Mr. Manning said. “It’s, Give me the chocolate, here’s your money.”

Another culinary stage is the Brooklyn Flea, the Fort Greene flea market, now in winter quarters in Dumbo.

“I try everything that’s served there,” said Eric Demby, one of the market’s founders, recounting the time he slurped down six bowls of soup in one sitting.

“There’s an opportunity to be recognized, not just locally but nationally,” Mr. Demby said, explaining that Salvatore Bklyn created chocolate- and lemon-studded cannoli specifically for the market.

Not everyone who tries out is a star.

“The longer I do this the more I get a sense of who’s doing this for fun and who’s doing this for a life’s pursuit,” Mr. Demby said. “The ones who are doing it seriously are the ones who wait before they approach me because they want to make sure they have it right before they come to the Flea. The ones who are doing it for fun are the ones who think it’s a glorified bake sale.”

Some sellers at the Flea make sporadic appearances, like Plan B Foods, which sells caramelized onions in a jar. Now the onions are available at Greene Grape Provisions.

Others are regulars, like Mr. McClure and his brother, Joe, and Daniel Sklaar, a former financial analyst, who produces Fine & Raw, a velvety, complex chocolate made with unroasted cacao beans.

“I love being a part of this community,” said Mr. Sklaar, 28, noting that Fine & Raw’s packaging was created by a lingerie designer paid with chocolate. “Brooklyn is always in beta testing.”

But for all the momentum, most members of this food movement are taking time to refine their crafts.

Even though they could more than double their output to 2,000 bars a week, the Masts don’t have a timetable for increasing production in their new factory, a tastefully raw space with exposed brick walls and a counter salvaged from a 100-year-old Pennsylvania ice cream parlor.

“We’re not sure how a micro-batch chocolate factory is supposed to run,” Rick Mast said. “We’re going take our time and let it evolve.”

As Michael Mast, 29, said, “Slow growth, slow design, slow food. Slow, but without being flaky.”

The mantra is similar at Prime Meats, which has been opening in stages since January.

“It’s going to be incremental,” Mr. Castronovo said. “But when it’s ready you’re going to totally trip.”

[billy]

I liked the reviewer who said that the topics in The Botany of Desire, tulips, potatoes, marijuana
and apples, sounded like an Amsterdam shopping list.

[kellypope]

Dude, this is what I'm talking about with the arts and crafts. HAND made, tradition-based. There's definitely a movement underfoot and it's anti-globalization, for sure.

[BridgeTroll]

Here is the TED talk by Michael Pollan.  It is about 17 minutes long.

You will never look at plants and vegetables the same way...


http://www.ted.com/talks/view/id/214

[kellypope]

I love when he gets to the permaculture bit. I love that. I just listened to a talk by Vandana Shiva and she described the spice farms in India that she's visited. She describes them as some of the most efficiently utilized land she's seen. I bought Omnivore's Dilemma while I was back home, but I forgot to bring it back up with me. We have to read most of it for a class of mine anyway.

In another class we watched a film called Our Daily Bread by Nikolaus Geyrhalter. It's amazing. It's a beautifully shot examination of industrial agriculture. The film itself has no narration or anything, and appears very neutral, but sometimes the things that take place are gut-renchingly horrifying and equally bizarre. If you can get ahold of it, you should sit down to watch. And do so with a group of people.

[chris]

There's definitely a movement underfoot and it's anti-globalization, for sure.

Funnily enough, its not anti-globalization at all. This is actually a function of the dynamic relationship between the increasing economies of scale (globalization, or tertiary and quartenary associations) and the need for us as social beings to also increase our interpersonal contacts (localization, or primary and secondary associations). So, this movement serves as the mechanism that allows us as individuals to adapt to the ever-increasing global market by localizing production and "boutiquing" service provision. Its called 'grocalization' by sociologist George Ritzer, also known for his work on the McDonaldization of society, which has preferred speed and convenience over quality for the better part of the century; this artisanal movement is in response to that.

It is a return to the authenticity of products based on personal investment in a world that is increasingly impersonal and disengaged. Call it the second wave of social capital, if you will. Its also tied in with a movement dedicated to infusing emotion into what many would consider emotionless things. The road signs that read "Please drive safely, my mommy works here" are an example of emotionally intelligent signage which is correlated to the increase in glocalized markets.

I would posit that Jacksonville missed a good bit of the conscious globalization market, as the only real markers of such global market seem to be big-box retailers and national food chains. However, it does seem that the glocalization/grocalization movement is taking foot here, as the number of locally owned and operated establishments seems to be increasing. The real interesting thing about this whole movement is that is entirely dependent on critical mass, both for globalization to occur, and then for the transition to grocalization. As density increases, the global retailers maintain their customer base while the more discerning consumers shop around, and generally settle on establishments that offer prefer quality and comfort over cost and convenience. This is evidenced in larger cities, where globalization happened far earlier and without notice. Just think of New York, Boston, L.A., Paris, and London as examples of cities where global businesses exist in competition with local businesses, yet both manage to eke out an existence, thereby reinforcing the grocalized market climate.

[JaxByDefault]

I'm not sure that JAX is quite there yet with the grocalized market. With some notable exceptions, it's always struck me as woefully short on indies of both the food and craft variety.

The "slow food" food movement has been extolling the virtues of artisan and handmade for decades. (Chez Panisse chef Alice Waters is a big proponent.) This is just the latest (and hippest, Williamsburg-iest) incarnation.

The great thing is that Internet ordering, travel, nice food markets, and fast shipping has expanded the boundaries of what we're exposed to. It's also great for erasing food prejudice--there is brie made in south Georgia (Sweet Grass Dairy) that's every bit as good as anything I ever had in France; cheddar from Tennessee (Sweetwater Valley) that's as good as craftmade cheeses from Vermont. French vodka that tops Russian vodka; and a batch Scottish wisky blended by an American/Scot partnership that is sublime (Compass Box --Orangerie, if you can get it).

You really want to get jealous, imagine living in a place where small batch botique liquors were available...for free tastings. Wandering into Demijohn's Edinburgh location still ranks as one of my favorite (and most unexpected) foodie days ever (www.demijohn.co.uk). Liberal pours of tastes of everything, nicely followed up by a trip to the next door cheesemonger for amazing cheeses and bread.

There's no question that artisan goods--food included--are superior. They are also sadly endangered by regulation.

[Ron Mexico]

I think is more a product of people wanting a little more TLC with their food.  There is something about knowing that the food you are eating was made with a high degree of passion and care that makes it taste better.  Not just the whole "green" thing, but taking care of where food comes from just makes sense. 

[JaxByDefault]

It is no accident that Florida, which is so dominated by large, commercial agriculture, has laws and regulations that make it difficult for small, artisan producers.

Stephen, thanks for calling attention to Cognito Farm. We are on their email list and they produce some wonderful products. They'll even raise a Thanksgiving turkey for you!

We often buy fabulous local eggs from Twinn Bridges farm that have to be labeled, under state law, as "Not for Human Consumption." It freaks out guests when they see the carton, but once they taste the eggs they get over it.

For people interested in local, small producers, check out the Beaches Green Market held every Saturday from 2-5pm at Jarboe Park in Neptune Beach.

Also check out Slow Food First Coast (http://slowfoodfirstcoast.com). They just did a tour of local farms and producers this weekend. They also feature restaurant, bars, producers, etc. that focus on local, sustainable food in their Snail of Approval awards (http://slowfoodfirstcoast.com/soa.html).

[BridgeTroll]

Interesting.  It is good to see people have a choice.  My question to anyone familiar is... What does this mean?

Most of our products are market “not for sale”, or “animal feed, not for human consumption” because they are not processed or stored in a permitted facility.  These products are legally sold under a “master feed registration” issued by the Florida Dept. of Agriculture and Consumer Services.

Clearly they ARE being sold for human consumption and are in fact being consumed by humans.

[JaxByDefault]

Interesting.  It is good to see people have a choice.  My question to anyone familiar is... What does this mean?

Most of our products are market “not for sale”, or “animal feed, not for human consumption” because they are not processed or stored in a permitted facility.  These products are legally sold under a “master feed registration” issued by the Florida Dept. of Agriculture and Consumer Services.

Clearly they ARE being sold for human consumption and are in fact being consumed by humans.

BT, just like the eggs that I mentioned above, these products are fine for human consumption. It is my understanding that under Florida law, products that are not processed and stored in a certain way must be labeled "not for human consumption," etc.

The point of eating most local, small-scale production food is to avoid foods that have undergone processing, etc. A good example is raw milk. Under existing laws, raw milk may only be sold as "not for human consumption," because it has not been pasteurized. Some people love raw milk for its taste (pasteurization destroys many flavor-enhancing compounds) and perceived health benefits. Pasteurization of large-scale milk production has greatly benefitted the public over the years, but some consumers enjoy the choice of locally-produced raw milk from people that they know and trust. Small producers can engage in better herd management practices than large-scale producers, which greatly reduces the risks of milk contamination that pasteurization is designed to prevent. (This is also why we can't get a lot of the good, young raw milk cheeses available in Europe. In the U.S., raw milk cheeses must be aged at least 60 days.)

Since these farms do not follow all of the processing, storage, etc. rules (that serve their greatest purpose regulating larger operations), they have to sell under Feed Distributor licenses (or other exceptions) and label their products accordingly. This really is an area of the law that needs to be changed to allow these producers to sell to consumers in a more straightforward manner.

[BridgeTroll]

Thank you for the explanation... and before I go further... your last sentence says it all.

This really is an area of the law that needs to be changed to allow these producers to sell to consumers in a more straightforward manner.

I understand why people are looking to avoid processed food with the advantages of freshness and taste... but at the same time are they not exposing themselves to contaminations that would be avoided via pasteurization?  I ask because it seems the "Not for human consumption" label is similar to the disclaimer people sign when they buy fireworks just over the state line in Baker or Clay county.

Are consumers assured of the safety of the goods sold;  based solely on the reputation of the growers and producers of the products?

[wsansewjs]

Thank you for the explanation... and before I go further... your last sentence says it all.

This really is an area of the law that needs to be changed to allow these producers to sell to consumers in a more straightforward manner.

I understand why people are looking to avoid processed food with the advantages of freshness and taste... but at the same time are they not exposing themselves to contaminations that would be avoided via pasteurization?  I ask because it seems the "Not for human consumption" label is similar to the disclaimer people sign when they buy fireworks just over the state line in Baker or Clay county.

Are consumers assured of the safety of the goods sold;  based solely on the reputation of the growers and producers of the products?

You always can do your own pasteurization at your home.

-Josh

[JaxByDefault]

...are they not exposing themselves to contaminations that would be avoided via pasteurization?

Yes and no.

With raw milk, I would really say that it is buyer beware. You have to know the condition in which the cattle are kept to be ensured that you are receiving safe, unpasteurized milk. As Josh mentioned with eggs, you can also pasteurize raw milk. Heating milk to 145 degrees for 30 to 35 minutes results in pasteurized milk that still has lots of flavor. (Most milk that you get in the grocery store has undergone ultra-high temperature (UHT) pasteurization at 265 to 300 degrees. Although it is heated for only a few seconds versus half an hour, such high temperatures destroy much of the flavor and gives the milk a slight cooked flavor.) Even if you know and trust your source, I would not advocate giving raw milk to infants, the elderly, or immunocompromised persons without pasteurizing it at home first.

Most shell eggs that you get at the grocery store have not been pasteurized. At last count at Publix, I believe only one brand was pasteurized. So, whether store bought or from your local farm, you may want to pasteurize your eggs--especially if you like your eggs runny or plan to use them uncooked (as in a mayonnaise, Caesar dressing, etc.) Simply heat them in a water bath to between 130 and 140 degrees (a candy thermometer works well for this) and hold them at that temperature for four to six minutes. (Don't go above 140, though, or you may coagulate some of the proteins in the egg white).

And finally, regardless of where you get them, the most dangerous thing that you can eat is---produce! According to the CDC about 40 percent of all reported food poisoning comes from contaminated produce. So wash those greens!

[Brian Siebenschuh]

The most dangerous thing you can eat is ANYTHING, if you don't wash your hands.  Why were we always forced to wash up for dinner as kids, and then when we become adults, we suddenly decide that eating food from hands that have touched other peoples' hands, stairwell bannisters, and bathroom doorknobs (?!?!) is perfectly acceptable?

Actually, I take that back.  The most dangerous thing you can eat is probably industrially produced ground beef.  The kind that comes in fast food hamburgers, and frozen patties at the supermarket.  I don't have the energy to do it, but would any interested party be willing to research the # of pounds of industrial ground beef that have been recalled in the past decade and stack that up against, say, illnesses related to raw milk, or any "anti-FDA" product?  Not that it's even a contest.