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A Different Waterfront Print E-mail
Wednesday, 14 May 2008

Today, the majority of Jacksonville's water based industry is located north of the Hart Bridge.  During the mid 20th century, the downtown riverfront resembled cities like San Francisco, Seattle, San Deigo and New York City.  A bustling district filled with wharfs, seafood markets, shipyards, and wholesale water-based industry.

 Downtown Waterfront Aerials

During Downtown's heyday, the city turned its back to the St. Johns River.  Springfield Parks served as the central public and recreation space for urban Jacksonville, while the river was the city's economic lifeblood.



 

 

 

Merrill-Stevens Shipyard

During this time, Berkman Plaza and the troubled redevelopment site known as the Jacksonville Shipyards was the home of one of Jacksonville's largest employers, the Merrill-Stevens Drydock & Repair Co.

Founded in 1866 by James Gilman Merill, Merrill-Stevens evolved from a blacksmith shop to the largest Atlantic shipyard south of Norfolk, Va. during World War II.  During the war, the shipyard was known for its production of motor gunboats  While the company no longer has any operations in Jacksonville, it lives on as Florida's oldest continuously operating yacht services company with production facilities on the Miami River, in South Florida.

 

 

 

 

 



 

 

Downtown Waterfront - Bay Street

During the mid 20th Century, Bay Street was Jacksonville's waterfront street of commerce.  The waterfront and many of the wharves where located less than a block south of Bay Street.

 


 

 

 

 

Commodore Point

Commodore Point was the home of the St. Johns River Shipbuilding shipyard during World War II.  This short lived shipyard employed 20,000 Jacksonville citizens in 1944, who produced Liberty ships bound for Europe and the Pacific.  During the 1950's, this area gained popularity in industrial based businesses that had begun the trend of moving outside of the heart of downtown.  Today, Metropolitan Park occupies the site of the old St. Johns River Shipbuilding Company. Despite the reduction in industrial activity, Commodore Point still is the home of the North Florida Shipyards, Inc.


 

 

  

The Southbank

During this era, the Southbank had a street grid, shipyards like the Northbank, and marshland where MOSH and Friendship Fountain are now located.  By the end of the decade, the Southbank had begun to see massive redevelopment with the construction of Prudential Tower (now Aetna), Baptist Medical Center and the Fuller Warren Bridge.






 
 

Northbank Waterfront - The Railyards

The west end of the Northbank waterfront was dominated by Atlantic Coast Line railyards and warves catering to warehouses and manufacturing facilities near the popular Jacksonville Terminal.

 




 

 

 

 

The age of modernization begins

Elected in 1949, William Haydon Burns began the first of five consecutive terms as the mayor of Jacksonville.  Under his leadership the face of downtown would change from one of riverfront industry by replacing blighted wharves with government facilities and massive surface parking lots. What was once known as skid row was replaced by the world's largest Sears store, Atlantic Coast Line Railroad's new headquarters, city hall and the Duval County Courthouse.  The face of the riverfront would never be the same.

 



 

 

Today, most of Jacksonville's river based industries are located north of the Hart Bridge.

 

Photo article written by Ennis Davis

 
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>> 16 Comments
Pavers
May 14, 2008, 8:18 am
Re: A Different Waterfront

Lake, what is your source for these great photos?  Can you link to them?
thelakelander
May 14, 2008, 8:48 am
Re: A Different Waterfront

The site is down right now, but here's the link.

http://www.floridamemory.com/PhotographicCollection/

When up and running, you can find images of just about every city in Florida.
creeksidebrewery
May 14, 2008, 9:04 am
Re: A Different Waterfront

Those pictures are awesome, I especially like the one of the Atlantic Coast building lit up @ night with the American flag. It' funny how a city's landscape can change so dramatically, in such little time, but maybe that means there is still hope for Jacksonville to be like this again.
thelakelander
May 14, 2008, 9:15 am
Re: A Different Waterfront

It took 50 years of a city being centered around urban pedestrian oriented growth to get to the downtown scene these images illustrate.  This means, IF our attitude towards development changes right now, it could take another 50 years to get back to this point.
Tony Bowlasoupa
May 14, 2008, 9:17 am
Re: A Different Waterfront

I miss downtown being the true center of everything as pictured in these photos, but not so much the warehouses, docks and shipyards. I dont think that would've been a good back drop for the superbowl!

Eitherway, awesome pictures. I'm trying to figure out what's going on in that first one, with the traffic lights over water. Hurricane? Flood? Traffic signals for boats? *shrug*
thelakelander
May 14, 2008, 9:18 am
Re: A Different Waterfront

It was a flood from a hurricane in the 1960s.
creeksidebrewery
May 14, 2008, 9:25 am
Re: A Different Waterfront

Possibly Hurricane Dora?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hurricane_Dora
thelakelander
May 14, 2008, 9:36 am
Re: A Different Waterfront

Quote
I miss downtown being the true center of everything as pictured in these photos, but not so much the warehouses, docks and shipyards. I dont think that would've been a good back drop for the superbowl!

I would have loved to see a wharf/warehouse or two still be around today.  They could have been a popular place for a public market or a destination for local goods (ex. seafood, produce, dining, etc.) in the heart of downtown.  Just another little element of urbanism that could have made Jacksonville a little more unique from the rest of the cities in the SE United States.  

San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf
Jason
May 14, 2008, 9:47 am
Re: A Different Waterfront

Outstanding work Lake!!  That was one of your best yet.

Having the world's largest Sears Store downtown is a testament to how much Jax was flourishing at the time.
Tony Bowlasoupa
May 14, 2008, 9:52 am
Re: A Different Waterfront


I would have loved to see a wharf/warehouse or two still be around today.  They could have been a popular place for a public market or a destination for local goods (ex. seafood, produce, dining, etc.) in the heart of downtown.  Just another little element of urbanism that could have made Jacksonville a little more unique from the rest of the cities in the SE United States.  

San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf


True, for the good of the city it's history it would've been better to save a piece of it.  But let's not get too nostalgic over rusty docks and warehouses filled with the stench of fish. (Sorry, just personal preference) When I was in Seattle last week I wasn't too impressed with the fish market on the Puget sound, it reeked!

But hey, at least we still have Talleyrand...
thelakelander
May 14, 2008, 10:11 am
Re: A Different Waterfront

Lol, I can't help it.  I've seen too many successul adaptive reuse projects (especially compared to having a passive riverwalk, surface lots and poorly integrated buildings).  I'm one of those guys who believes its always best to take advantage of what you already have and that view extends to rusty docks and warehouses, as well as parks, skyscrapers and streetscapes. 

Smelly fish and all, there's a bit of nostalgia and grit involved in all vibrant urban districts.  Its one of the elements that helps tells a visual history of a city's past and helps create an atmosphere that is hard to recreate.  This is one of the reasons I love the farmers market's atmosphere so much and believe it would grow to become a strong cultural assest, if we can find a better way to connect, market and take advantage of it.

The docks are gone, but we do have a few piers left at the Shipyards site.  I'm looking forward to the day that the public pier opens (if Landmar is still moving forward with it).



Jason
May 14, 2008, 11:24 am
Re: A Different Waterfront

I'm not overly upset that the shipyards are gone.  They were replaced with functional uses and one of the country's most beautiful skylines.  Embracing the river was a wonderful step forward.  The travesty is the demolition of LaVilla, Eastside, Brooklyn, and Main Street areas.
thelakelander
May 14, 2008, 11:50 am
Re: A Different Waterfront

One thing we haven't discussed is these images do show improvement along the riverfront, even in what we do have today.  We went from industry to MASSIVE SURFACE PARKING LOTS to a Hyatt Hotel, Landing, Berkman, TU Center, etc. 



One of the things that the recent Downtown implementation plan doesn't properly address is to doing a better job of working with what we already have in place.   For example, are there things we can do with the Landing, Omni, TU Center, MODIS Tower, etc. that can help make their existing ground level uses and activities more visual from the street.  People attract people and taking advantage of the number of "hidden" people already downtown can be an easy inexpensive way to make downtown seem more lively.
holly4463
May 14, 2008, 6:46 pm
Re: A Different Waterfront

I cringed when I read that Jacksonville was rated higher than Seattle in the "best cities for the outdoors" article.  I stayed silent after reading the rating system and realized why this was so.
But now someone is saying they don't like the Seattle fish market because it smells!  I'm assuming, Bowlasoupa, you mean Pike's Place Market.  I can't stay silent any longer!  Thousands upon thousands of people, both locals and tourists, visit that smelly place every day.  Where is that place in Jax, smelly or not?  From these pictures it looks like Jax, at one time, was well on its way to having a vibrant waterfront until a few bad planning decisions put it on the path to what we see today.

From somewhere in these posts will come the ideas and inspiration for positive change to downtown.  I personally think that a smelly fish and farmers market would be a step in the right direction.


Thank you for the pictures.  They are awesome.
Coolyfett
May 15, 2008, 2:07 am
Re: A Different Waterfront

Good pics lake!! I have seen many old school flicks of the city. I have never seen these before though. That pic where the 1st Fuller Warren is gone is crazy!!!

There is one pic where it shows new development on the north bank, but I can't tell if it is Bay Street or the street behind the courthouse that runs to the Landing parking lot going west. I don't know the name of that street. International Coast Road?? I may be wrong but it looks as if it was once a continues street under the Main Street bridge. Why in the hell would they close that off??

Those old docks are actually the second set built. And they became invested with rats. They had a major rat problem down in that area. Getting rid of the those docks was a good thing. I used to work at Jax Port where they bring the new Toyotas in over there in Talleyrand. Man the rats over there were tough!! They were super strong!! Scary.

Is it true that the Modis Building is halfway on the river??
Charles Hunter
May 15, 2008, 6:22 am
Re: A Different Waterfront

I think you are talking about Coast Line Drive (named for the RR company - we like to name streets after prominent businesses that locate on them), that ran along the river (actually over the river on pilings) from the (then) Atlantic Coast Line building, under the Main Street Bridge, to behind the Court House.  With exception of the old Civic Auditorium (now the Times-Union Center), it was river on one side, parking lots on the other.  It was taken out to create the Jacksonville Landing - only the part upriver from the Main Street Bridge was removed, the rest is still there in front of the Hyatt and Court House parking.

I don't think the river extends under Modis, but is under much of the court house parking, and possibly some of the Hyatt and Landing.
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