Neighborhoods: Monterey

August 28, 2009 17 comments Open printer friendly version of this article Print Article

Metro Jacksonville takes a look at Arlington's Monterey.

Monterey is the area of Arlington bounded by the river (west), Jacksonville University (north), University Blvd. (east) and Arlington Expressway (south).  Although there were historic communities established in the immediate area, the Monterey we see today is a direct result of suburban growth that came from the opening of the Matthews Bridge in 1955.

About Arlington in General

Arlington was once an independent community governed unofficially by the Arlington Community Club and Duval Co.  It was annexed in 1968* as a part of Jacksonville, Florida.  What is now known as Arlington is made up of several early neighborhoods.  You will see references to neighborhoods (such as Eggleston) as if they are somewhere outside of Arlington.  It is due to the commonly understood boundaries of Arlington changing over time (meaning that the area known as Arlington expanded).  These interpretations effectively extended what was known as Arlington.  Today, what is known as the Greater Arlington area (but referred to as Arlington) extends from the west boundaries bordering on the St. John's River to the farthest eastern boundaries of the peninsula near Mayport.  In the earliest days, Arlington was considered to be only the westernmost portion, and ending at Mill Creek.  Within even that boundary, neighborhoods such as Clifton, Floral Bluff, Eggleston, Gilmore, and Chaseville have had their own identity started when those neighborhoods were first named.  The definition of what we consider "Old Arlington" remains to be the earliest definitions of Arlington.  For more about the other community names within the greater Arlington area, see our study on Subdivisions of Arlington.

The original "Arlington" area was bordered by the St. Johns River on the west and northern edges, and slightly south of the Arlington River on the southern edge.  Access to the waterways was important so the earliest establishments developed along these edges.  The westernmost edge was directly across from what is now downtown Jacksonville (originally known as "Cows Ford" due to it being an area of the St. John's River where cattle could be driven across).  As a result of the growing development of the area in Arlington, a ferry was built connecting Arlington's westernmost edge to downtown Jacksonville.  The area around the Arlington end of the ferry naturally developed faster than other parts of the peninsula that Arlington is on.  This older and more popular area has become the focus of the area we call "Old Arlington." Mill Creek Road is considered the eastern edge of "Old Arlington."  East of Old Arlington shown on the map is naturally known as "Arlington East."

Map of Old Arlington

The construction of the Matthews Bridge in 1952

Walkscore Comparison:

90–100 = Walkers' Paradise: Most errands can be accomplished on foot and many people get by without owning a car.
70–89 = Very Walkable: It's possible to get by without owning a car.
50–69 = Somewhat Walkable: Some stores and amenities are within walking distance, but many everyday trips still require a bike, public transportation, or car.
25–49 = Car-Dependent: Only a few destinations are within easy walking range. For most errands, driving or public transportation is a must.
0–24 = Car-Dependent (Driving Only): Virtually no neighborhood destinations within walking range. You can walk from your house to your car!

88 - Downtown Jacksonville
80 - San Marco
71 - Fairfax
71 - Riverside
70 - Southside (downtown Southbank)
70 - Normandy
68 - Hogan's Creek
67 - Murray Hill
66 - Regency
64 - Springfield
62 - Monterey


Southern Monterey

The Arlington Expressway/University Blvd. interchange shortly after the opening of the Matthews Bridge.  An undeveloped Monterey can been seen in the upper left side of the aerial.

Today, the southern portion of Monterey is dominated with a mix of uses that include, strip retail, office space, a small college, single family homes and several multi-family developments.  This mix came from an explosion of growth around the Arlington Expressway/University Blvd interchange after the opening of the Matthews Bridge.

Town & Country Shopping Center

Jones College

Founded in 1918, Jones College is a private college with three campuses.  Arlington's Monterey is the home of the Arlington (Main) Campus, which is on the eastbank of the St. Johns River.

The Riverfront

Monterey's riverfront is dominated by a large number of custom built residences.

"Crossroads Commercial District"

The intersection of Chaseville Highway (University Blvd.) and Arlington Road is the home of Arlington's oldest commercial district, which was platted by the Alderman Realty Company in the early 20th century.  Here, you'll find a corridor that contains several site design elements associated with Jacksonville's urban core neighborhoods.  

Alderman Realty Company subdivisions: In 1913 Alderman Realty purchased 1,107 acres from James Bours, which was originally part of the Francois Richard Grant. The land was a mushroom shaped parcel starting at the river with 700' of frontage and running east either side of Arlington Road getting wider as it approached Norman Studios. It then expanded to Strawberry Creek on the south and on the north to the northeast boundary of Richard's grant. The eastern boundary also followed the eastern boundary of Richards Grant near Terry Parker High School. When they purchased the land Arlington Heights Subdivision, which lies in the center of the tract, had been platted and recorded in PB 4 Pg. 19 in 1911. This subdivision lies either side of Arlington Road between University and Rogero (17th St.) and widens to the East. Alderman Realty platted the area between the river and University calling it Arlington Heights second subdivision and recorded it in 1913 in PB 5, Pg 83. The land from Rogero and its southerly extension and the East line of Richards grant was also platted in 1913 on PB 5, Pg. 99, and was known as Alderman Farms Subdivision, being made up of 1000' square lots. Most of this has been replatted into Alderman Park and Arlington Manor except the Tree Hill land. Cleveland Johnson surveyed and platted the land and in 1914 ended up buying the land that is now Tree Hill.

Located at 1201 University Blvd, Arlington Elementary School's main structure dates back to 1900.

Arlington Road

Before the Arlington Expressway changed the area's landscape, Arlington Road was the main east-west thoroughfare on this side of the St. Johns River.  Today, this area is home to a number of maritime uses.

Built in 1893 at Nyack, New York by Julius Peterson as a private yacht for day service only. First owner was Mrs. Mary Packer Cummings who used it for service between Jacksonville and Keystone Bluff (the winter home of Cummings). Sold in 1913 to Captain H.D. DeGrive and used for a short while on Passenger Package Freight and Mail Run from Jacksonville (Newman Street wharf) and Keystone, Arlington and Floral Bluff, Florida. It was then used for exclusive Passenger Excursion Service from Jacksonville to Green Cove Springs. Sold around 1925 to Captain Charles M. Fozzard and converted to Fairbanks-Morse 60 hp. diesel. It became a harbor tug and later was sold to parties in Miami for the same work.

The end of Arlington Road was once the point where ferries carried passengers from the Arlington area to downtown Jacksonville.

Photo tour by Ennis Davis