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When Downtown Was The Place to Be

Fifty years ago, the Northbank streetscene was quite different from what one would experience today. During the 1950's Downtown Jacksonville was the epicenter of life on the First Coast.

Published May 6, 2008 in History     Digg Digg   Share this article on Facebook Share on Facebook   twitterTweet this!

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During the 1950's, Jacksonville was Florida's second largest city with 204,517 residents.  With a population density of 6,772, Jacksonville was equal to or denser than cities such as Cincinnati, Seattle, Denver, and Portland and it was significantly larger than others such as Tampa, Orlando, Sacramento, Austin and Phoenix.

Downtown was a major banking and insurance center with companies like Barnett Bank, Atlantic National Bank, Florida National Bank, Prudential, Gulf Life, Afro-American Insurance, Independent Life and American Heritage Life all with major locations in the core.  This decade would also be the one where urban core growth reached its peak before feeling the effects of white flight, urban renewal, race riots, and suburban sprawl.

 Intersection of Main & Monroe Streets

Intersection of Laura & Adams Streets

Intersection of Bay & Newnan Streets

Intersection of Adams & Hogan Streets

Duval County Courthouse on the St. Johns River

Intersection of Adams and Jefferson Streets

Intersection of Main and Forsyth Streets

Main Street Bridge, looking north

Bird's eye view of Forsyth Street

Richard Nixon at Hemming Park

Intersection of Adams and Hogan Streets

Intersection of Laura and Adams Streets

Intersection of Laura and Adams Streets

Intersection of Forsyth and Laura Streets

Lyndon B. Johnson at Hemming Plaza

Intersection of Forsyth and Main Streets


Aerial of massive railyards heading into the Jacksonville Terminal

Forsyth Street

Downtown riverfront

Intersection of Adams and Main Streets

Nightlife on Forsyth Street

Hemming Park from the intersection of Monroe and Hogan Streets

Bird's eye view of Hemming Park

An accident near the intersection of Main and Ashley Streets

Forsyth Street, looking west from Julia Street

Bird's eye view of the intersection of Bay and Laura Streets

Intersection of Main and Adams Streets

Forsyth Street, looking east towards Hogan Street

Article written by Ennis Davis



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» 25 Comments

reednavy

May 06, 2008, 05:14:03 AM

Some of those pics of Hemming Park look like Southern California with all those palms. I can see this happening again, one day, maybe in about 15 years, even thats a stretch. This downtown has soooo much potential, it'll blow Tampa and Orlando downtowns away if it can tap all its resources!

Wow, CSX Headquarters was just getting built then, so long ago.

second_pancake

May 06, 2008, 08:32:01 AM

So weird.  i was just talking to a friend of mine yesterday and said, "have you ever seen pics of Jax in the 50's?" Now, here they are.

What a different place.  If it weren't for the pics of Hemming plaza and the Main St. bridge, I wouldn't even recognize the city as Jacksonville.  What a shame that the streets aren't busy like this anymore...not even during the work week.

Jason

May 06, 2008, 08:48:09 AM

Great collection.  Hopefully City Hall is passing this link around...

heights unknown

May 06, 2008, 10:45:06 AM

Super Photos!

Hustle, bustle, looks kind of like a tapered down but busy and populous version of New York City.

We moved to Jax in 1964 and downtown then was still hustle and bustle, had movie theaters, department stores, banks, businesses, insurance companies, you name it, downtown had it.

I was a kid back then so I can't really remember a lot of things; but what hits me the most from viewing and assessing these photos is the denseness and compactness, that is, no open parking lots, all blocks filled in with something (stores, businesses, homes, etc.); and.......people, people everywhere.

I wish someone would do a "then and now" type of scenario with these same pics; list these pics again as "then," and show the same locations "now."  This will give us a better idea of what has happened to our great and beloved Jax since the populous 1950's.

We will all be dead, or something else adverse will happen before Jax returns to its former glory; don't think it will happen during our time if not at all.  I hope it does.

We're trying, but until we get rid of the "fumble, bumble, piddle, twiddle, nerds that we vote in to City Hall, and get someone else in that has a hard, focused vision, nothing will happen.

Great photos!  Thanks!

Heights Unknown

JeffreyS

May 06, 2008, 10:51:08 AM

Heights that sound like a wonderful photo gallery for City Hall.  Day to day inspiration for those who work there we could title it how far we've come. 

Sounds like a good project for Teresangel.

Ocklawaha

May 06, 2008, 10:54:41 AM



Do I cry or weep? As the ancient one here, I REMEMBER almost every scene in this essay. In fact, I've often wondered if we could somehow get a square footage of the buildings in say 1960 and stack them to the total square footage downtown today. In those days we ruled Florida, Jacksonville had an iron grip on the states finance, planning and resources. We were the darling of Tallahassee, and if Jacksonville said "FROG" Florida would JUMP! Today we are not the tail that wags the dog, we hardly amount to the flea that at least makes it's presence known.

These photos make me want to throw up my hands and run. I wouldn't want to look back as the fire and brimstone rained down from the heavens. What on EARTH have we done! "We don't deal with carnival people...", "We don't want Bush Gardens, we want Bush beer..."  My reflection is tainted by the hundreds of hours I spent at Union Station. A sea of bells, horns, steam lines, trains, switch engines, cars moving from train to train and from railroad to railroad, as busy as Hartsfield on it's best days. Just that one scene says it all. Amtrak and JTA...What a sham. Rosenblooms, Furchgots, Petersons 5 and 10, The Terminal Watch Shop, The Coffee Shop, and don't forget those RED CAPS... GOD! I'm ready to go again, "AVIANCA, SI PERO NO! NO PUEDO! AVE MARIA PUES!




Ocklawaha

JeffreyS

May 06, 2008, 11:22:52 AM

I see the highrise apts and condos that have come to our river front and I have hope.  I can accept that the real estate market slowed this progress.  That said my son won't be much older before I have to say is the city offering the most he can get out of life.  Schools, transit, beaches, the river, old neighborhoods, new neighborhoods, our ports, tourist potential and a commerce friendly state our city government should be able to make a go of this. 

This article really has me feeling negative. 

Steve

May 06, 2008, 12:49:48 PM

I wish someone would do a "then and now" type of scenario with these same pics; list these pics again as "then," and show the same locations "now."  This will give us a better idea of what has happened to our great and beloved Jax since the populous 1950's.

It doesn't have the same sights, but here you go:

http://www.metrojacksonville.com/content/view/396/

heights unknown

May 06, 2008, 05:57:11 PM

This thread may make some feel negative; but when you see the old photos, then the new photos, the first thing you say or think is, "WHAT THE HELL HAPPENED!?

Heights Unknown

Matt

May 06, 2008, 08:19:40 PM

wow, even a mediterranean(sp?) influenced building?Huh

if i could go back then for a day....how depressing. i have a book of historic jax photos, and many times i can't look at it... Cry

thelakelander

May 06, 2008, 09:04:59 PM

Despite the demolition of most of downtown's building fabric, that building is one of the few remaining that have been restored.  You can see it in the middle of this group of images from Metro Jacksonville's Lighting Laura Street study.

jeh1980

May 06, 2008, 09:37:43 PM

Downtown STILL IS the place to be...we just need more urban connectivity.

Lunican

May 06, 2008, 09:41:49 PM

Here is a good shot of that building today.

jrwjax

May 06, 2008, 10:11:21 PM

Well, have to say it's nice to know that Jacksonville did have a downtown life.  Seeing all those old buildings with all that commerce makes you realize how dull downtown has become both socially and architecturally.  Hopefully, new housing and new residents will bring new life to the buildings that are left.  One can only hope no more old buildings need to be brought down for parking lots or pocket parks.

heights unknown

May 06, 2008, 10:31:43 PM

Here is a good shot of that building today.



It looks nice and beautiful; it's still holding up wonderfully.

Heights Unknown

Jason

May 07, 2008, 08:49:50 AM

^ I'd say there are plenty of holes left to fill before any more buildings need to come down.

heights unknown

May 07, 2008, 02:24:06 PM

I think one of the things that lured people downtown back then, other than the shops, businesses, restaurants, etc., is that there wasn't much of a problem with parking.  Notice that you were allowed to park on the street curb back then, bumper to bumper, and also notice the absence of parking meters in the majority of the pics.  Maybe we should go back to some of the "old ways" of doing business to attract people back downtown.  We do need an entertainment complex (movie theaters, video/pin ball arcades, etc.) and some type of other attraction, primarily on the Northbank, other than the Landing to lure and keep people coming back to downtown.

Heights Unknown

Steve

May 07, 2008, 02:27:51 PM

I think one of the things that lured people downtown back then, other than the shops, businesses, restaurants, etc., is that there wasn't much of a problem with parking.  Notice that you were allowed to park on the street curb back then, bumper to bumper, and also notice the absence of parking meters in the majority of the pics.  Maybe we should go back to some of the "old ways" of doing business to attract people back downtown.  We do need an entertainment complex (movie theaters, video/pin ball arcades, etc.) and some type of other attraction, primarily on the Northbank, other than the Landing to lure and keep people coming back to downtown.

Heights Unknown

Seriously - parking seems to work fine in the retail districts of San Marco, Five Points, and Avondale.  I don't have a problem with a 2-3 hour limit (maybe a couple of 30 min spaces next to the Jewelry stores to keep them happy) and no meter.  It seems to work fine there.

We also went through this phase a few years back where we widened the sidewalk at the expense of parallel parking.  Remind me why we did that?

thelakelander

May 07, 2008, 02:38:49 PM

Some in charge were under belief that wide sidewalks were essential for a vibrant streetscape.  Unfortunately, they must have not visited vibrant places like Charleston, Portland, Savannah or San Juan, PR.







Wide sidewalks can be nice, but they should not be widened at the expense of other features that play an important role in making downtown a hospitable environment.

Steve

May 07, 2008, 10:56:52 PM

Especially when you think of older, european cities - narrow sidewalks with parallel parking.  Semms to work ok for them

copperfiend

May 08, 2008, 12:10:25 AM

Was downtown the place to be tonight? It's always nice to see downtown full of people walking, talking and having fun.

Driven1

May 13, 2008, 09:25:46 AM

Well, have to say it's nice to know that Jacksonville did have a downtown life.  Seeing all those old buildings with all that commerce makes you realize how dull downtown has become both socially and architecturally.  Hopefully, new housing and new residents will bring new life to the buildings that are left.  One can only hope no more old buildings need to be brought down for parking lots or pocket parks.
Yeah...for real.  Not since I have been here.  It is better now thanany time  in the last 10 years (I got here in 99). 

Matt

May 20, 2008, 06:01:40 PM

Quote
Despite the demolition of most of downtown's building fabric, that building is one of the few remaining that have been restored.  You can see it in the middle of this group of images from Metro Jacksonville's Lighting Laura Street study.

D'oh! I have never noticed it! Dag, now I want to go see it.

Matt

May 20, 2008, 06:02:39 PM

I think one of the things that lured people downtown back then, other than the shops, businesses, restaurants, etc., is that there wasn't much of a problem with parking.  Notice that you were allowed to park on the street curb back then, bumper to bumper, and also notice the absence of parking meters in the majority of the pics.  Maybe we should go back to some of the "old ways" of doing business to attract people back downtown.  We do need an entertainment complex (movie theaters, video/pin ball arcades, etc.) and some type of other attraction, primarily on the Northbank, other than the Landing to lure and keep people coming back to downtown.

Heights Unknown

Hopefully that new development by the Prime Osborn will be built and will be that catalyst.

DetroitInJAX

June 24, 2008, 01:07:26 AM

May I ask why all of the vibrant commercial signage that was part of downtown for its first like.. what.. 100 years.. is no longer in use?  A good urban area is a mess of bright lights and retail.
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